Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Having presented myself at the governor’s house, I soon obtained
quarters; but they were not at all according to my fancy, being small
and narrow. The town, in its very low position, is not refreshed by a
single current of air, and altogether has a very oppressive atmosphere.
The huts in these Songhay places are made rather for women than for men,
the greater part of each hut being occupied by the female apartment or
the alkilla, and the bedstead or serír, made of the branches of trees,
being inclosed in a separate chamber of mats, and thus leaving only a
very small entrance, and obstructing the whole interior of the dwelling.
I have already had occasion, in describing the town of Ágades, to point
out the care which the Songhay people bestow upon their matrimonial
couches; and I was obliged first of all to take down one of these small
matting bed-rooms in order to obtain some little ventilation in my hut.
At length I had made myself somewhat comfortable, when the governor sent
two calabashes of rice in the husk, and two others of millet, but no
refreshment for the moment, though I stood very much in need of it,
having been exposed to the sun during the hottest part of the day. To
the master of the harbour, who had so opportunely supplied me with the
large boats, I made a present of 1000 shells. Very little rain had
fallen as yet in this neighbourhood; and a thunder-storm which broke out
in the afternoon did not reach us. Indeed the air in this low valley,
which is probably at a level of about 350 ft., was so oppressive, that I
felt at times almost suffocated, and unable to breathe.
The following morning I took a ride round the place and its
neighbourhood. The shape of the town is tolerably quadrangular, being
encompassed on three sides by a low rampart of earth, the side towards
the river being unprotected. It is of considerable size, each side
measuring about 1400 yards; but the town is only thinly inhabited, the
dwellings (all of which except the house of the governor, consist of
matting and reeds) lying scattered about like so many separate hamlets.
It is intersected from north to south by a wide shallow depression or
vale encompassed by dúm palms, which are almost the only trees either
inside or outside the town; and at the end of the rainy season it
becomes filled with water, causing great inconvenience to the business
of the town and the intercourse between the various quarters, and
greatly contributing to its unhealthiness. There can be no doubt that,
in seasons when the river reaches an unusual height, the whole town is
under water, the inhabitants being obliged to seek safety beyond the
borders of the valley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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