Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Notwithstanding the power of the ruler, the place is in a miserable
condition, and resembles rather a wilderness than a town; but it is
extremely picturesque, having a thick covert of beautiful trees
nourished by a large sheet of water. The place contains scarcely 200
huts, and nothing like a market is to be found. The difficulty of our
obtaining supplies was the greater, as, contrary to our expectation and
the information we had received, nothing but shells had currency in the
place; and it was with a great deal of trouble that, by means of the
cotton strips with which we had provided ourselves, we obtained a small
supply of butter and corn, four drʿa being reckoned here the same as in
Gando, while in the town of Say there was thirty per cent profit upon
the cotton strips. The most abundant article I found here was milk,
which was the best I had ever yet tasted in Negroland; and it gave me a
fair but rather exaggerated idea of what I might expect to find amongst
the Fúlbe further west. We also bought a small quantity of corn from the
women, in exchange for some looking-glasses and cloves. All the corn
here consists of sorghum; and seventy shells, at the time, would just
buy sufficient corn for a horse for one day, which is a very high price
indeed for Negroland.
Notwithstanding the poor character of the place, I was obliged to stay
here two whole days, exclusive of the day of my arrival, in order to
give the camels some rest, as they were suffering greatly from the
effects of the rainy season, and on account of the holiday of the
“fotr,” which fell on the 8th. If I had known the character of the
province of Libtáko better, I should have deemed it prudent to make even
a longer stay here: and I would advise any future traveller to do so,
taking care, however, to have a sufficient supply of shells with him,
which will enable him to make himself quite comfortable in Yágha.
Music having announced the arrival of the important and joyful day, soon
after midnight, almost the whole of the men went out in the morning in
order to say their prayers at about a mile’s distance from the town. All
the Fúlbe were dressed in snow-white shirts, as a symbol of the purity
of their creed; but some of them wore dark-blue trousers. There were
about forty horses with the party, which probably was all that the
townspeople could muster.
Having had to sustain here a slight religious attack from the kádhi, who
wanted to represent me as a sorcerer, I thought it prudent to make a
small present to each of the holiday people, as a kind of séddega, or
alms. The holiday also disturbed me in compiling a small vocabulary of
the Gurma language, called by the Fúlbe Gurman-kóbe, which I had begun,
but was obliged to leave unfinished.
[Footnote 64: The present consisted of a red cap, half a piece of
muslin, and some smaller articles.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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