Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
The bargaining being at length concluded, we got ourselves in readiness
to pursue our journey, when a violent thunder-storm, gathering from the
north, kept us back till nearly noon. We at length set out; but the
recently bought animals were so intractable that we only moved on at a
very slow pace. We had first to retrace our steps a little to the
eastward, in order to cross the hilly chain which separated us from the
sandy downs along the Niger; and had then to descend a very steep sandy
slope, which brought us into an irregular valley, with the mountains of
Dalla forming a conspicuous object towards the west. Having then turned
round a mountain spur which stretched out into the plain on our right,
we reached the encampment of Bélé, a powerful chief of the degraded
tribe of the Haw-n-ádak. His exterior had nothing of that noble
appearance which so eminently distinguishes the higher class of these
wild tribes, as he was of unwieldy corpulency, and of a rather short
figure, resembling the famous South-African chief, Nangóro, visited by
Messrs. Galton and Anderson. He received us, however, very hospitably,
and proved to be rather an intelligent man; but, fortunately, he had not
sufficient cleverness to discover that I was a Christian, although, from
the very first moment when he beheld my luggage, he arrived at the firm
conclusion that I was not what my companions represented me to
be,—namely, a sheríf from the far east; but he had made up his mind, on
account of the little knowledge which I possessed of his language, and
which I had not quite kept back before him, that I was a merchant,
either from Ghadámes or Morocco, and it was quite amusing to me to hear
him argue this point, while he affirmed with the greatest obstinacy, and
with an oath, that I was a Shillúh,—a Berber from the north,—and wanted
to represent myself as a sheríf, in order to pass through his tribe with
less trouble and expense. He, as well as his people, became, by degrees,
rather troublesome; but they treated us well, sending us two prepared
sheep, and large dishes of rice boiled in an abundance of butter, but
without salt. The chief himself is said to consume every day a sheep,
and the supply of milk from seven cows,—in this respect reminding us of
the Emperor Vitellius.
[Sidenote: Monday, August 15th.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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