Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
It was almost noon when we started, for as long as my friend El Waláti
had something to sell, there was no chance of travelling, and in order
to diminish my dissatisfaction, it was pretended that one of my pack-
oxen was lost. Here my companion bartered his young camel for sixty
sheep, and the bargain being at length concluded, we were allowed to
proceed on our journey. But before setting out I had to give my blessing
to the whole population of the encampment, male as well as female. Among
the latter I discovered a few pretty young women, particularly one, who,
together with her baby, formed a most pleasing spectacle, her beauty
being enhanced by her extreme shyness in approaching me; but their dress
was very poor indeed, consisting of coarse cotton stuff, which was
wrapped round the body and brought down over the head. All the boys
under twelve years of age have the left side of their head entirely
shaven, while from the crop on the right side a long curl hangs down.
At length we were again on the road, but our march, through a rather
level tract of country, was only of short duration, and after a little
more than six miles, having crossed a basin where a large sheet of water
had collected, we again took up our quarters in another encampment the
chief of which was stated to possess great authority, so that I had once
more to give presents to the value of nearly 10,000 shells, besides a
túrkedi and “háf” to be given to the man belonging to Bélé, who had
served us as a guide. I had likewise to send a present to a Tárki chief
at some distance, in order to take every precaution recommended to me by
my companion to insure my safety, although I felt certain that he
himself applied the greater portion to his own use. It was thus that my
supplies rapidly disappeared, and I had a fair prospect, if this state
of things should continue for any length of time, of arriving in
Timbúktu greatly lightened. We were however hospitably treated by our
hosts, and were even regaled with the uncommon luxury of a large dish of
“megáta,” a sort of maccaroni, prepared from wheat with a rich seasoning
of butter, and famous since the time of El Bekrí. As a proof that we
were approaching Timbúktu, I may mention that the people of this
encampment were extremely anxious to get a sip of tea, which they called
the water of Simsim, from the celebrated well of that name in Mekka.
Another of my camels being knocked up, I here exchanged it for four
bulls, one of which was fit for carrying burdens, being equal in value
to two or three of the others; but I had afterwards a keen dispute on
account of this bargain, the camel having subsequently died.
[Sidenote: August 17th.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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