Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
However, the second day of my residence here was more promising. I
received visits from several respectable people, and I began to enter
with spirit upon my new situation, and to endeavour by forbearance to
accommodate myself to the circumstances under which I was placed. The
state of my health also seemed to improve, and I felt a great deal
better than on the preceding day.
I was not allowed to stir about, but was confined within the walls of my
house. In order to obviate the effect of this want of exercise as much
as possible, to enjoy fresh air and at the same time to become familiar
with the principal features of the town, through which I was not allowed
to move about at pleasure, I ascended as often as possible the terrace
of my house. This afforded an excellent view over the northern quarters
of the town. On the north was the massive mosque of Sánkoré, which had
just been restored to all its former grandeur through the influence of
the Sheikh el Bakáy, and gave the whole place an imposing character.
Neither the mosque Sídi Yáhia, nor the “great mosque,” or Jíngeré-bér,
was seen from this point; but towards the east the view extended over a
wide expanse of the desert, and towards the south the elevated mansions
of the Ghadámsíye merchants were visible. The style of the buildings was
various. I could see clay houses of different characters, some low and
unseemly, others rising with a second story in front to greater
elevation, and making even an attempt at architectural ornament, the
whole being interrupted by a few round huts of matting. The sight of
this spectacle afforded me sufficient matter of interest, although, the
streets being very narrow, only little was to be seen of the intercourse
carried on in them, with the exception of the small market in the
northern quarter, which was exposed to view on account of its situation
on the slope of the sand-hills which, in course of time, have
accumulated round the mosque.
But while the terrace of my house served to make me well acquainted with
the character of the town, it had also the disadvantage of exposing me
fully to the gaze of the passers by, so that I could only slowly and
with many interruptions, succeed in making a sketch of the scene thus
offered to my view, and which is represented in the plate opposite. At
the same time I became aware of the great inaccuracy which characterises
the view of the town as given by M. Caillié; still, on the whole, the
character of the single dwellings was well represented by that
traveller, the only error being that in his representation the whole
town seems to consist of scattered and quite isolated houses, while, in
reality, the streets are entirely shut in, as the dwellings form
continuous and uninterrupted rows. But it must be taken into account
that Timbúktu, at the time of Caillié’s visit, was not so well off as it
is at present, having been overrun by the Fúlbe the preceding year, and
he had no opportunity of making a drawing on the spot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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