Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
According to all appearance, the mosque consisted originally of a low
building, flanked on the east and west side by a large tower, the whole
courtyard being surrounded by a wall about eight feet in height. The
eastern tower is in ruins, but the western one is still tolerably well
preserved, though its proportions are extremely heavy. It rises in seven
terraces, which gradually decrease in diameter, so that while the lowest
measures from forty to fifty feet on each side, the highest does not
appear to exceed fifteen. The inhabitants still offer their prayers in
this sacred place, where their great conqueror, Háj Mohammed, is
interred, although they have not sufficient energy to repair the whole.
The east quarter of the mosque evidently was formerly the most
frequented and best inhabited part of the town, and is entirely girded
with a thick grove of siwák bushes, which covers all the uninhabited
part of the former city. The town, in its most flourishing period, seems
to have had a circumference of about six miles. According to the
statement of Leo[37], it appears never to have been surrounded by a
wall. The dwellings in general do not seem to have been distinguished by
their style of architecture, with the exception of the residence of the
king, although even that was of such a description that the Bashá Jódar,
on conquering the town, wrote to inform his master, Múláy e’ Dhéhebi,
that the house of the Sheikh el Harám, in Morocco, was much better than
the palace of the Áskia.[38]
When I returned to my tent from this my first excursion, I found a great
crowd of men assembled there, but was unable to make the acquaintance of
any one who might give me some information about the place, and, on the
whole, I did not succeed in entering into any amicable relations with
the inhabitants of Gógó. Their sullen behaviour seems to be accounted
for by the fact, as I shall mention further on, that they had behaved
rather treacherously towards the Christian who had visited this place
some fifty years before.
I endeavoured also, although in vain, to buy Indian corn, from the
inhabitants, although it was perhaps the fear of the Tawárek which made
them deny that they had any. Thus I found myself reduced to the
necessity of providing myself with a supply of úzak, or eníti, that is
to say, the seeds of the _Pennisetum distichum_, which is generally used
as an article of food by the Tawárek, my horses having fared very badly
for some time.
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