Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Here my route separated from that of the ghaladíma, as I was going to
Kanó, while he, again, along this roundabout way (the direct route
having been almost entirely broken up by the enemy), directed his steps
towards Kátsena. After satisfying our appetites, for which we had not
been able to provide the preceding night, I took a small present with
me, and went to bid farewell to the ghaladíma and those of his suite who
had been particularly kind to me; and I hope that they will long
remember me. Having fulfilled this duty, I proceeded with my people, in
order to continue my march alone. The country was tolerably open, broken
only here and there by granite rocks, while the vegetation was enlivened
now and then by dúm-palms. Cultivation was limited to certain tracts;
but, notwithstanding the unsafe state of the country, the pasture-
grounds were not quite destitute of cattle; and being at length able to
travel according to my own inclinations, I enjoyed the scenery
extremely. It had been my original intention to pursue the road to
Korófi; but, by mistake, after leaving Wurmó, I had got into the track
leading to Birchi. I reached this latter town after a march of
altogether about twelve miles, having crossed my former route from
Kúrayé to Kúrrefi. I found that almost all the male inhabitants of the
place had joined the expedition against Káura; and I pitched my tent in
front of the house of the ghaladíma, but was invited by the people who
were left as guardians to pass the hot hours of the day in the cool
entrance-hall of his courtyard. Although the place does not exhibit any
great signs of wealth or comfort, I was glad to find that the corn here
was much cheaper than in Úmmadaw. I was also enabled to buy some butter.
Moreover, the absence of the governor exercised no unfavourable
influence upon my treatment, which was very kind: an old mʿallem
especially evinced a friendly disposition towards me.
[Sidenote: Saturday, October 14th.]
After a march of about fourteen miles, passing by the town of Rawëó,
where a small market was held, and traversing the suburb of Sakássar,
with its beautiful “ngáboré,” or fig-trees, we reached the town of Máje,
which had been represented to us as rich in cattle and milk, but which I
found half deserted; the town having greatly declined about twelve years
previously, when the whole country, including the places Takabáwa,
Matázu, Korófi, and Kúrkojángo, revolted, and gave free passage to an
army of the Góberáwa. I was glad to buy a good sheep for 1500 shells.
The governor of the place was absent in Kátsena, where he generally
resides. We had pitched our tent in the shade of a beautiful fig-tree,
and passed the afternoon very pleasantly; but were greatly troubled
during the night by the numbers of mosquitoes.
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