Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Having some preparations to make for this last stage of my march, I had
thus full opportunity of becoming aware of the immense difference in the
prices of provisions between this outlying oasis of North Africa and
Negroland, especially Kúkawa, and for the little supply which I wanted
for my journey from here to Tripoli, I had to pay as much as 100
makhbúbs. Besides procuring here my necessary supplies for the road, my
chief business was in discharging some of my servants, and more
particularly Mohammed el Gatróni, whose fidelity I have mentioned
before. I added to the small remainder of his salary which I still owed
him, the stipulated present of fifty Spanish dollars, which I would
willingly have doubled if I had had the means, as he well deserved it;
for it is only with the most straightforward conduct and with a generous
reward that a European traveller will be able to make his way in these
regions.
As for encountering the dangers of the road, the arrangement of the
Bashá, that a party of soldiers whom he had discharged, and who were
returning home, should travel in my company, seemed rather of doubtful
effect; as such a company, while it afforded a little more security in
certain tracts, could not fail to turn against myself the disposition of
the native population in those districts where the revolt against the
Turkish government was a popular movement; I was obliged therefore to
leave it to circumstances to decide how I should make my way out of
these difficulties. The Bashá for some time thought that the only safe
course for me to pursue would be to turn my steps towards Ben-Gházi, in
order to avoid the revolted district altogether. But such a plan seemed
very objectionable, as well on account of the greater distance and
expense of this road, as with regard to the disposition of the Arabs of
that region, who, if the revolution should prove successful, would
certainly not lose a moment in following the example of their brethren.
[Sidenote: July 20th.]
I left the town of Múrzuk in the afternoon and encamped in the
plantation, and the next day moved on a short distance towards Sheggwa,
where Mr. Warrington took leave of me. Halting then for the greater part
of the following day near the village of Delém, and making a good
stretch in the evening and the early part of the morning, we reached
Ghodwa, with its pretty plantation and its many remains of former well-
being. Starting again in the afternoon, and making a long stretch during
the night, we encamped in the evening of the following day at the border
of the plantation of Sebha, some twenty years ago the residence of the
chief of the Welád Slímán. Here we staid the following day in order to
obtain some rest. The heat all this time was very considerable, and the
thermometer at two o’clock in the afternoon, on an average, indicated
from 110° to 112°.
[Sidenote: July 26th.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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