Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Having therefore waited until the arrival of the “rekás,” or courier, in
order to obtain the most recent news, and having in consequence of their
unfavourable tenor been induced to increase the wages of my camel
drivers, whom I had hired previously, I at length got off on the 12th of
August. Pursuing the track called Trík el Merhóma, which was never
before traversed by a European, and, passing by the wells El Hammám, El
Maráti, Ershidíye, and Gedafíye, and then by the narrow Wádí Ghirza (the
place once the great object of African research for Lieutenant now
Admiral Smyth), with its interesting ancient sepulchres in the form of
obelisks, we reached Wádí Zemzem on the 19th. Here there was a
considerable encampment of Arabs, and some of the ringleaders of the
revolution residing here at the time, I found myself in a serious
dilemma. But the English were too much respected by these tribes for
them to oppose my passage, although they told me plainly, that if they
suspected that the English were opposed to the revolution, they would
cut my throat, as well as that of any European traveller who might fall
into their hands. However, after some quiet explanations with them as to
what was most conducive to their own interests, and about the
probability of their succeeding in making themselves independent of the
Turkish sway; and after having promised a handsome present to one of the
more influential men among them, they allowed me to pass on. I had also
great difficulty in hiring some fresh camels, the safety of which I
guaranteed, to take me to Tripoli. I thus pursued my journey to Bení-
Ulíd with its deep valley overtowered by the ruins of many a middle-age
castle, and adorned by numbers of beautiful olive trees, besides being
enlivened by many small villages consisting of stone dwellings half in
decay. On approaching the place, I fell in with a messenger, sent very
kindly to meet me by Mr. Reade, Her Majesty’s Vice-Consul in Tripoli,
who, besides a few letters, brought me what was most gratifying to me in
my exhausted state, a bottle of wine, a luxury of which I had been
deprived for so many years.
I had some little trouble in this place, as there was residing here at
the time a brother of Ghóma, the rebel chief himself, who had sent an
express messenger on my account; and differences of interest between the
various chiefs of the place, caused me at the same time some
difficulties, though, in other respects, they facilitated my
proceedings. Altogether I was very glad when I had left this turbulent
little community behind me, which appeared to be the last difficulty
that opposed itself to my return home.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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