Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
But the day was also important in another respect, as the sons of Sídi
Mohammed, El Bakáy, and his brothers, attempted to bring about a
friendly understanding among themselves; and I was not a little
surprised in the morning of this day, on being informed by Sídi
Mohammed, who acted as my guard here, that I was to accompany him back
to the “ródha,” the venerated cemetery a few hundred yards east of the
town, where Sídi Mukhtár lies buried; for it thus seemed as if there was
still some prospect of my again coming into collision with the
townspeople. Galloping on the road with Dáúd, the brother of ʿAbd-
Alláhi, who accompanied us, and beating him easily on my fine “Blast of
the Desert,” as I styled my horse, which was still in tolerable
condition, I followed my companion, and we took our post at the southern
side of the tomb of the ancestor of the holy family. Although I had
passed it repeatedly on former occasions, I never until now inspected it
closely. I found it a spacious clay apartment, surrounded by several
smaller tombs of people who were desirous of placing themselves under
the protection of the spirit of this holy man, even in the other world.
Gradually we were joined by the relations and friends of the Sheikh,
Álawáte appearing first and saluting me in his usual smiling manner;
then the sickly Mohammed ben ʿAbd-Alláhi, who was regarded almost as a
member of the family; next followed Hammádi, who greeted me and received
my compliments in return; then the Sheikh el Bakáy; and, lastly,
ʿAbidín, whom I had not seen before. He looked rather older than the
Sheikh, with expressive sharply cut and manly features, besides a rather
fair complexion, fairer than my host. He was clad in a bernús of violet
colour, and it appeared remarkable to me that, although I had placed
myself exclusively under the protection of his brother, to whom he as
well as Hammádi was vehemently opposed, yet he behaved very friendly
towards me.
All the parties having assembled, we were regaled with a luncheon, at
which I was the first to be helped. The people then having said their
prayers of “ʿaser,” while I retired behind the sepulchre, in order not
to give any offence, we went to a greater distance from the town, in an
easterly direction, in order to get out of the way of the people who had
come from the town on this occasion, when the various members of the
family of Mukhtár sat down upon the ground in a circle, and began a
serious private consultation, in order to settle their political
affairs; but, although it lasted for more than an hour, it did not seem
to lead to the desired end, and broke up abruptly. The Sheikh had
endeavoured to persuade me to pass this night in the Áberaz, or the
suburb of the town; but this I had refused to do, being afraid of
causing another disturbance, and, as he promised that he would come out
of the town with my luggage on the Friday following, I returned with
Sídi-Mohammed to the tents.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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