Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
At Suez coffee forms the chief article of trade. It is a place of no
strength, and has only eight old cannon, seemingly unfit for service;
the others were removed to Jizé by Ismaîl Bey. The sea here produces
few fish. Oysters indeed, and a few others of the shell kind, are
seen; the best fish not coming higher than Cossîr. Meat is scarce,
bread of an inferior quality, sometimes hardly eatable. Butter and
milk are brought in small quantities by the Arabs. Water is brought
from three several places. _Bîr Naba_, to the northward, affords
the best; the others are _Aiûn Mûsa_ and _Bîr-es-Suez_. It is
always bought by the skin at a considerable price, and if a war were
to arise with the Arabs, none could be found.
I was very desirous to inspect the Eastern portion of the canal cut by
Adrian, according to D’Anville, which extends from _Birket-es-Sheib_
to Suez, but my Arab guides would not accompany me, in spite of a
previous agreement made for that purpose. All consented that marks
of the canal existed, and some of them arose to my own observation.
The ruins of Arsinoe may yet be recognized in a mount of rubbish
in the neighbourhood of Suez. The spot is now called _Kolsûm_, and
remains exist of a stone pipe for conveying water thither from Bîr
Naba. A rock, on the African side of the gulf, furnishes _petroleum_,
which is brought to Suez, and esteemed a cure for bruises, &c. In
crossing the gulf just before Suez, boats are used at high water,
which comes in rapidly to the height of four feet; at other times
camels, horses, and men ford it with safety.
At Suez I observed in the shallow parts of the adjacent sea, a
species of weed, which in the sunshine appeared to be red coral,
being of a hue between scarlet and crimson, and of a spungy feel and
quality. I know not if any use be made of it, nor am I acquainted
with its Arabic name; but it strikes me, that, if found in great
quantities at any former period, it may have given the recent name
to this sea; for this was the Arabian gulf of the Antients, whose
_Mare Erythræum_, or Red Sea, was the Indian Ocean. This weed may
perhaps be the סוּפ suph of the Hebrews, whence ים סוּפ _Yam Suph_,
their name for this sea.
The shores here abound in beautiful shells of various kinds; a
circumstance which might also have been remarked in speaking of
Maadié near Abukîr.
On the 8th of March 1793, passed the ford at Suez, and on the 14th
arrived at Tûr. So many journies to Mount Sinai have been published,
that I shall not dwell much on the particulars. The route from Suez
to Tûr at first lies along a barren coast, but afterwards some
pleasant vales of verdure are found, particularly _Wadi Corondel_,
where grow some date trees and shrubs. Mountains of red granite are
seen, perhaps too interspersed with porphyry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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