Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
The violent manner in which my property had been seized, and the
general ill-treatment I had received, much augmented the disorder,
already severe. I had now been fifteen days in the tent, exposed
to great variations of temperature, it being at the close of the
rainy season, and so entirely disregarded, that though tormented
with thirst, I could rarely obtain water to drink. I judged that the
only means of restoration which remained were, to return to Cobbé,
and avail myself of the shelter of a clay-house, and that privacy and
quiet, the want of which I had so sensibly felt. Being in possession
of the greater part of my property, and having left me only so much
as would supply the wants of a few months, the Melek did not seem
very anxious about my stay. I hired two Arabs, and with the camels
that had been given me, and the property that remained, made my way
on the third day to the place whence I came.
In the intervals of my illness, I visited the chief persons of the
place; and as the eyes of the people became habituated to me, I found
my situation growing somewhat more tolerable. Idle, as I certainly
was, during this winter, with respect to the immediate objects of my
voyage, I grew of course more familiar with the manners and particular
dialect of the country; for the Arabic, which is spoken here, differs
materially from the vernacular idiom of Egypt. I seldom, indeed,
joined in the parties where _Merîsi_[35] was introduced, because
it was important not to hazard becoming concerned in the riots,
which are the frequent consequence of their inebriation. But I was
often diverted by the mode of conducting a bargain, which sometimes
lasts for several hours; and I listened, perhaps not wholly without
instruction, to their legal arguments, and the cool discussions of
right, which are the consequence of often submitting disputes to
arbitration. I could smile at the quibbling distinctions, by which
the niceties of external observance are settled; but I had generally
reason to be satisfied with their theory of morals.
It is usual for the graver men, during the heat of the day, to sit
and converse under a shed erected for the purpose. When convalescent,
I seldom failed to be of this party; for though the conversation
contained few sallies of wit, much less profundity of observation,
yet it was carried on without ill-humour, with mutual forbearance,
and on the whole in an equable course. Perhaps indeed the society
appeared less dull, as dissipating reflections which my situation
rendered unpleasant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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