Provisions are generally dear; the fish is more valued than that of Seidé, as the sea has here a rocky bottom, while at Seidé it is sand or mud. The red wine of Libanus which is brought here, is palatable, but cannot be transported from the mountain without a licence from the custom-house, so that it is dearer than formerly; yet the present price is only forty piasters the _cantar_, or about four pounds sterling the hundred weight. From Beirût, on the 22d April, I went to _Antûra_ on Mount Libanus, distant about four hours. In the way passed the _Nahr Beirût_, and after the _Nahr el Kelb_, the largest stream in this part of the country. The former is the noted river of Adonis, famous for vines, so exquisitely described by Milton. _Antûra_ is a pleasant village, surrounded with mulberry trees, but presenting nothing remarkable. Not far from this place is a convent of nuns, where Mr. Wortley Montague lodged his wife[57]. The dress of the Christians in this quarter seems unrestrained; they wear turbans adorned with various colours, even green; and they are freely indulged in the exercise of their religion: so natural is despotism to this clime, that those who live under their own Christian shechs or governors, are almost equally oppressed with those subject to Turks. The shechs fleece the poor people, and Jezzâr fleeces the shechs. I afterwards visited _Harrîsé_. Here the Maronite patriarch resides, who exercises an authority almost regal over the Christians of that rite. From _Harrîsé_ returned to Beirût. As in consequence of a dispute between Jezzâr and the Pasha of Tripoli it was become unsafe to travel there, I joined a party of disbanded soldiers, and proceeded to Tripoli in their company. Our journey being quick, I had few opportunities for observation on the road. This part of the country is noted for producing the best tobacco in Syria. That plant is cultivated in several districts, particularly in the neighbourhood of Tripoli, Gebeilé, and Ladakia. On the third day arrived at Tripoli, about ten o’clock in the morning, having slept as usual in the open air. Tripoli is a city of some extent, situated about a mile and an half from the sea. Vessels moor near the shore, and are sheltered by a ridge of rocks, but the situation is not extremely secure. The air is rendered unwholesome by much stagnant water. The town is placed on a slight elevation, the length considerably exceeding the breadth. On the highest ground, to the South, is the castle, formerly possessed by the Earls of Tripoli; it is large and strong. Hence is visible a part of Mount Libanus, the summit of which is covered with snow. The gardens in the vicinity are rich in mulberry and other fruit trees. The city is well built, and most of the streets are paved. It is the seat of a Pasha, who at present is the son of Abdallah, Pasha of Damascus.