Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
Parallel to the _Chalige_[15] runs the principal street. It should
be observed that the houses of the Europeans are all on the
_Chalige_, the stench of which has been supposed to operate in
producing the pestilence, to which that order of men is however
the least subject. The mosques in Kahira are computed at more
than three hundred; four or five of them far exceeding the rest in
splendor. The _Jama el Az-her_ is a very considerable eleemosynary
establishment, supplying chiefly poor ecclesiastics, to the amount of
some thousands, with broth and other articles. Most of the mendicants
in Kahira are ecclesiastics, who urge their studies as an excuse for
idleness. Blindness, I know not from what cause, affecting one or
both eyes, is extremely common among the Egyptian beggars. The mosque
called _Jama el Az-her_ is one of the most magnificent of Kahira,
ornamented with pillars of marble, and Persian carpets. The property
attached to this mosque is immense. A shech, being an ecclesiastic
of the highest order, presides over the establishment; which also
supports a number of persons distinguished for their profound skill
in theology, and accurate knowlege of literal Arabic. It is furnished
with an extensive collection of MSS. and lectures are read on all
subjects which are here called _scientific_, being commonly removed
farthest from science.
The other mosques most frequented are, that of _Sultan el Ghouri_,
_el Hassanein_, and, of later date, that erected by Mohammed Bey
Abudhahab. For the construction of the latter the most costly
materials were provided, and it is esteemed a _chêf-d’œuvre_
of oriental magnificence.
The Saracenic structure on the island _Rouda_, which contains the
_Mokkias_, or Nilometer, has been represented in various designs, and
repeatedly described. The graduation of it is confused, imperfect,
and not to be depended on: so that they who would inform themselves
correctly as to the Nile’s increase, should make their observation
on some smooth surface, washed by the river, and perpendicular to
its plane; never depending on the public report, which the cryers
are suborned to make agreeable to the will of government; and which
at the beginning of the increase generally exceeds the truth, and
afterwards falls short of it.
Large and sumptuous reservoirs are found in various parts of the
city, where water is given to passengers. Baths, adorned with marble,
and provided with every possible convenience, and plenty of water,
also abound. The attendants are extremely dextrous, and the charge
very reasonable.
The Okals, or warehouses, are spacious, strongly built, commodious and
clean. These are for wholesale goods. For retail, are the bazârs, as
_Khân Chalîl_, _Hamsâwi_, &c. extensive buildings, with convenient
shops, each trade in its allotted quarter, and copiously supplied
with every commodity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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