Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
2. Remains of a large temple, with caverns excavated in the rock.
3. The magnificent edifice styled the _palace of Memnon_. Some of
the columns are about forty feet high, and about nine and a half in
diameter. The columns and walls are covered with hieroglyphics. This
stands at _Kourna_.
4. Behind the palace is the passage styled Bibân-el-Molûk, leading
up the mountain. At the extremity of this passage, in the sides of
the rock, are the celebrated caverns known as the sepulchres of the
antient kings.
Several of these sepulchres have been described by Pococke with
sufficient minuteness; he has even given plans of them. But in
conversation with persons at Assiût and in other parts of Egypt,
I was always informed that they had not been discovered till within
the last thirty years, when a son of Shech _Hamâm_, a very powerful
chief of the Arabs, who governed all the South of Egypt from Achmîm
to Nubia, caused four of them to be opened, in expectation of
finding treasure.
They had probably been rifled in very antient times; but how the
memory of them should have been lost remains to be explained. One of
those which I visited exactly answers Dr. Pococke’s description;
but the other three appear materially different from any of his
plans. It is therefore possible that some of those which he saw have
been gradually closed up by the sand, and that the son of _Hamâm_
had discovered others.
They are cut into the free-stone rock, in appearance upon one general
plan, though differing in parts. First, a passage of some length;
then a chamber; a continuation of the first passage turns abruptly to
the right, where is the large sepulchral chamber, with a sarcophagus
of red granite in the midst.
In the second part of the passage of the largest are several cells
or recesses on both sides. In these appear the chief paintings,
representing the mysteries, which, as well as the hieroglyphics
covering all the walls, are very fresh. I particularly observed
the two harpers described by Bruce; but his engraved figures seem
to be from memory. The French merchants at Kahira informed me that
he brought with him two Italian artists; one was Luigi Balugani,
a Bolognese, the other Zucci, a Florentine.
On landing with my Greek servant at _Kourna_, no male inhabitants
appeared, but two or three women were standing at the entrance of one
of their dens. As we passed in quest of the Shech-el-belad, to request
a guide, one of the women said in Arabic, “Are not you afraid of
crocodiles?” I replied in the negative. She said emphatically,
“We are crocodiles;” and proceeded to depict her own people as
thieves and murderers. They are indeed a ferocious clan, differing in
person from other Egyptians. Spears twelve or fourteen feet in length
are sudden and deadly weapons in their hands. At Kahira, Mohammed
Bey Elfi had told me I should here need a guard of twenty men,
but I found two guides assigned me by the Shech-el-belad sufficient.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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