“Now, for the first time,” says Palgrave, “we could in some measure
appreciate the strength of the Wahabee in his mastery over such a land.
Before us to the utmost horizon stretched an immense plain, studded with
towns and villages, towers and groves, all steeped in the dazzling noon,
and announcing everywhere life, opulence, and activity. The average
breadth of this populous district is about sixty miles, its length twice
as much, or more; it lies full two hundred feet below the level of the
uplands, which here break off like a wall. Fifty or more good-sized
villages and four or five large towns form the commercial and
agricultural centres of the province, and its surface is moreover thickly
strewn with smaller hamlets, isolated wells, and gardens, and traversed
by a net-work of tracks in every direction. Here begin, and hence extend
to Djebel Toweyk itself, the series of high watch-towers that afford the
inhabitants a means, denied otherwise by their level flats, of discerning
from afar the approach of foray or invasion, and thus preparing for
resistance. For while no part of Central Arabia has an older or a better
established title to civilization or wealth, no part also has been the
starting-point and theatre of so many wars, or witnessed the gathering of
such numerous armies.
“We halted for a moment on the verge of the uplands to enjoy the
magnificent prospect before us. Below lay the wide plain; at a few
miles’ distance we saw the thick palm-groves of ’Eyoon, and what little
of its towers and citadel the dense foliage permitted to the eye. Far
off on our right, that is, to the west, a large dark patch marked the
tillage and plantations which girdle the town of Rass; other villages and
hamlets, too, were thickly scattered over the landscape. All along the
ridge where we stood, and visible at various distances down the level,
rose the tall, circular watch-towers of Kaseem. But immediately before
us stood a more remarkable monument, one that fixed the attention and
wonder even of our Arab companions themselves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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