“Here, as in most parts of Arabia, the staple article of cultivation is
the date-palm. Of this tree there are, however, many widely differing
species, and Kaseem can boast of containing the best known anywhere, the
Khalas of Hasa alone excepted. The ripening season coincides with the
latter half of August and the first of September, and we had thus an
ample opportunity for testing the produce. Those who, like most
Europeans at home, only know the date from the dried specimens of that
fruit shown beneath a label in shop-windows, can hardly imagine how
delicious it is when eaten fresh and in Central Arabia. Nor is it, when
newly gathered, heating, a defect inherent to the preserved fruit
everywhere; nor does its richness, however great, bring satiety: in
short, it is an article of food alike pleasant and healthy. Its
cheapness in its native land might astonish a Londoner. Enough of the
very best dates from the Bereydah gardens to fill a large Arab
handkerchief, about fifteen inches each way, almost to bursting, cost
Barakat and myself the moderate sum of three farthings. We hung it up
from the roof-beam of our apartment to preserve the luscious fruit from
the ants, and it continued to drip molten sweetness into a sugary pool on
the floor below for three days together, before we had demolished the
contents, though it figured at every dinner and supper during that
period.
“We were soon under the outer walls of ’Eyoon, a good-sized town
containing at least ten thousand inhabitants according to my rough
computation. Its central site, at the very juncture of the great
northern and western lines of communication, renders it important, and
for this reason it is carefully fortified, that is, for the country, and
furnished with watchtowers much resembling manufactory chimneys, in size
and shape, beside a massive and capacious citadel. My readers may
anticipate analogous, though proportionate, features in most other towns
and villages of this province.
“Between the town-walls and the sand-hills close by was a sheltered spot,
where we took about four hours of sleep, till the waning moon rose. Then
all were once more in movement, camels gnarling, men loading, and the
doctor and his apprentice mounting their beasts, all for Bereydah. But
that town was distant, and when day broke at last there was yet a long
road to traverse. This now lay amid mounds and valleys, thick with the
vegetation already described; and somewhat after sunrise we took a full
hour to pass the gardens and fields of Ghat, a straggling village, where
a dozen wells supplied the valley with copious irrigation. On the
adjoining hillocks—I may not call them heights—was continued the series
of watch-towers, corresponding with others farther off that belonged to
villages seen by glimpses in the landscape; I heard, but soon forgot,
their names.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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