The day after their arrival they made a call upon Mohanna, the ruler of
Bereydah, in order to ask his assistance in proceeding to Nedjed. But he
was too busy in devising means to exact more tribute-money from the
Persian pilgrims to give any notice to two persons whose dress and
appearance gave no token of wealth. This neglect afterward proved to be
a piece of good fortune. They then spent several days in a vain attempt
to find camels and guides; no one was willing to undertake the service.
The central province of Nedjed, the genuine Wahabee country, is to the
rest of Arabia a sort of lion’s den, into which few venture and yet fewer
return. An elderly man of Bereydah, of whom Palgrave demanded
information, simply replied, “It is Nedjed; he who enters it does not
come out again,” and this is almost literally true. Its mountains, once
the fastnesses of robbers and assassins, are at the present day equally,
or even more, formidable as the stronghold of fanatics who consider
everyone save themselves an infidel or a heretic, and who regard the
slaughter of an infidel or a heretic as a duty, at least a merit. In
addition to this general cause of anticipating a worse than cold
reception in Nedjed, wars and bloodshed, aggression and tyranny, have
heightened the original antipathy of the surrounding population into
special and definite resentment for wrongs received, perhaps inflicted,
till Nedjed has become for all but her born sons doubly dangerous and
doubly hateful.
Another circumstance, which seemed to make Palgrave’s situation more
difficult, although it was equally fortunate in the end, was a rebellion
which had broken out in the neighboring city of ’Oneyzah, headed by
Zamil, a native chief. The town was at that time besieged by the
Wahabees, yet held out gallantly, and the sympathy of the people of all
Kaseem was so strongly on the side of Zamil, that only the presence of
the Wahabee troops in Bereydah kept that city, also, from revolt. The
rebels had sent deputations to Mecca and also to Djebel Shomer for
assistance, and there seemed to be some possibility of a general Central
Arabian revolt against the hated Wahabee supremacy. It seemed thus to be
a most unpropitious time for penetrating the stronghold of Nedjed.
Palgrave did not so much fear the suspicion of being a European, as that
of being an Ottoman spy. His first need, however, was the means of going
forward safely. He thus described how an apparent chance made him
acquainted with the man to whom almost the entire success of his later
travels was due:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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