“Barakat and myself have made our morning household purchases at the
fair, and the sun being now an hour or more above the horizon, we think
it time to visit the market-place of the town, which would hardly be open
sooner. We re-enter the city gate, and pass on our way by our house
door, where we leave our bundle of eatables, and regain the high street
of Bereydah. Before long we reach a high arch across the road; this gate
divides the market from the rest of the quarter. We enter. First of all
we see a long range of butchers’ shops on either side, thick hung with
flesh of sheep and camel, and very dirtily kept. Were not the air pure
and the climate healthy, the plague would assuredly be endemic here; but
in Arabia no special harm seems to follow. We hasten on, and next pass a
series of cloth and linen warehouses, stocked partly with home
manufacture, but more imported; Bagdad cloaks and head-gear, for
instance, Syrian shawls and Egyptian slippers. Here markets follow the
law general throughout the East, that all shops or stores of the same
description should be clustered together, a system whose advantages on
the whole outweigh its inconveniences, at least for small towns like
these. In the large cities and capitals of Europe greater extent of
locality requires evidently a different method of arrangement; it might
be awkward for the inhabitants of Hyde Park were no hatters to be found
nearer than the Tower. But what is Bereydah compared even with a
second-rate European city? However, in a crowd, it yields to none; the
streets at this time of the day are thronged to choking, and to make
matters worse, a huge, splay-footed camel comes every now and then,
heaving from side to side like a lubber-rowed boat, with a long beam on
his back menacing the heads of those in the way, or with two enormous
loads of firewood, each as large as himself, sweeping the road before him
of men, women, and children, while the driver, high-perched on the hump,
regards such trifles with the most supreme indifference, so long as he
brushes his path open. Sometimes there is a whole string of these
beasts, the head-rope of each tied to the crupper of his precursor, very
uncomfortable passengers when met with at a narrow turning.
“Through such obstacles we have found or made our way, and are now amid
leather and shoemakers’ shops, then among coppersmiths and ironsmiths,
whose united clang might waken the dead or kill the living, till at last
we emerge on the central town-square, not a bad one either, nor very
irregular, considering that it is in Kaseem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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