“This mountain essentially constitutes Nedjed. It is a wide and flat
chain, or rather plateau, whose general form is that of a huge crescent.
If I may be permitted here to give my rough guess regarding the elevation
of the main plateau, a guess grounded partly on the vegetation, climate,
and similar local features, partly on an approximate estimate of the
ascent itself, and of the subsequent descent on the other or sea side, I
should say that it varies from a height of one to two thousand feet above
the surrounding level of the peninsula, and may thus be about three
thousand feet at most above the sea. Its loftiest ledges occur in the
Sedeyr district, where we shall pass them before long; the centre and the
southwesterly arm is certainly lower. Djebel Toweyk is the middle knot
of Arabia, its Caucasus, so to say; and is still, as it has often been in
former times, the turning-point of the whole, or almost the whole,
peninsula in a political and national bearing.
“The climate of the northern part of Djebel Toweyk, whether plateau or
valley, coincident with the province of Sedeyr, is perhaps one of the
healthiest in the world; an exception might be made in favor of Djebel
Shomer alone. The above named districts resemble each other closely in
dryness of atmosphere, and the inhabitants of Sedeyr, like those of
Shomer, are remarkable for their ruddy complexion and well-developed
stature. But when we approach the centre of the mountain crescent, where
its whole level lowers, while the more southerly latitude brings it
nearer to the prevailing influences of the tropical zone, the air becomes
damper and more relaxing, and a less salubrious climate pictures itself
in the sallower faces and slender make of its denizens.
“Two days later we attained the great plateau, of which I have a few
pages since given an anticipated description.
“About noon we halted in a brushwood-covered plain to light fire and
prepare coffee. After which we pursued our easterly way, still a little
to the north, now and then meeting with travellers or peasants; but a
European would find these roads very lonely in comparison with those of
his own country. All the more did I admire the perfect submission and
strict police enforced by the central government, so that even a casual
robbery is very rare in the provinces, and highwaymen are totally out of
the question. At last, near the same hour of afternoon that had brought
us the day before to Ghat, we came in sight of Mejmaa’, formerly capital
of the province, and still a place of considerable importance, with a
population, to judge by appearances and hearsay, of between ten and
twelve thousand souls.
“We were up early next morning, for the night air was brisk, and a few
hours of sleep had sufficed us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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