“While from our commanding elevation we gazed thoughtfully on this scene,
so full of remembrances, the sun set, and darkness grew on. We naturally
proposed a halt, but Aboo-’Eysa turned a deaf ear, and affirmed that a
garden belonging to ’Abd-er-Rahman, already mentioned as grandson of the
first Wahabee, was but a little farther before us, and better adapted to
our night’s rest than the ruins. In truth, three hours of brisk
travelling yet intervened between Derey’eeyah and the place in question;
but our guide was unwilling to enter Derey’eeyah in company of Persians
and Syrians, Shiya’ees and Christians; and this he afterward confessed to
me. For, whether from one of those curious local influences which
outlast even the change of races, and give one abiding color to the
successive tenants of the same spot, or whether it be occasioned by the
constant view of their fallen greatness and the triumph of their enemies,
the scanty population of Derey’eeyah comprises some of the bitterest and
most bigoted fanatics that even ’Aared can offer. Accordingly we moved
on, still keeping to the heights, and late at night descended a little
hollow, where, amid an extensive garden, stood the country villa of
’Abd-er-Rahman.
“We did not attempt to enter the house; indeed, at such an hour no one
was stirring to receive us. But a shed in the garden close by sufficed
for travellers who were all too weary to desire aught but sleep; and this
we soon found in spite of dogs and jackals, numerous here and throughout
Nedjed.
“From this locality to the capital was about four miles’ distance. Our
party divided next morning; the Na’ib and his associates remaining
behind, while Barakat and myself, with Aboo-’Eysa, set off straight for
the town, where our guide was to give notice at the palace of the
approach of the Persian dignitary, that the honors due to his reception
might meet him half-way. At our request the Meccans stayed also in the
rear; we did not desire the equivocal effect of their company on a first
appearance.
“For about an hour we proceeded southward, through barren and undulating
ground, unable to see over the country to any distance. At last we
attained a rising eminence, and crossing it, came at once in full view of
Ri’ad, the main object of our long journey—the capital of Nedjed and half
Arabia, its very heart of hearts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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