“We urged our starting dromedaries across the open square in front of the
market-place, traversed the town in its width, which is scarce a quarter
of its length (like other coast towns), till we emerged from the opposite
gate, and then looked out with greedy eyes for the sea, now scarce ten
minutes distant. In vain as yet, so low lies the land, and so thick
cluster the trees. But after a turn or two we came alongside of the
outer walls, belonging to the huge fortress of Karmoot, and immediately
afterward the valley opening out showed us almost at our feet the dead
shallow flats of the bay. How different from the bright waters of the
Mediterranean, all glitter and life, where we had bidden them farewell
eight months before at Gaza! Like a leaden sheet, half ooze, half sedge,
the muddy sea lay in view, waveless, motionless; to our left the massive
walls of the castle went down almost to the water’s edge, and then turned
to leave a narrow esplanade between its circuit and the Gulf. On this
ledge were ranged a few rusty guns of large calibre, to show how the
place was once guarded; and just in front of the main gate a crumbling
outwork, which a single cannon-shot would level with the ground,
displayed six pieces of honey-combed artillery, their mouths pointing
seaward. Long stone benches without invited us to leave our camels
crouching on the esplanade, while we seated ourselves and rested a little
before requesting the governor to grant us a day’s hospitality, and
permission to embark for Bahreyn.
“Barakat and I sat still to gaze, speculating on the difference between
the two sides of Arabia. But our companions, like true Arabs, thought it
high time for ‘refreshment,’ and accordingly began their inquiries at the
castle-gate where the governor might be, and whether he was to be spoken
to. When, behold! the majesty of Feysul’s vicegerent issuing in person
from his palace to visit the new man-of-war. My abolitionist friends
will be gratified to learn that this exalted dignitary is, no less than
he of Hofhoof, a negro, brought up from a curly-headed imp to a
woolly-headed black in Feysul’s own palace, and now governor of the most
important harbor owned by Nedjed on the Persian Gulf, and of the town
once capital of that fierce dynasty which levelled the Kaabah with the
dust, and filled Kateef with the plunder of Yemen and Syria. Farhat, to
give him his proper name, common among those of his complexion, was a
fine tall negro of about fifty years old, good-natured, chatty,
hospitable, and furnished with perhaps a trifle more than the average
amount of negro intellect.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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