The travellers entered upon their adventurous undertaking with the
advantage of experiences gained on a previous journey among the Arab
tribes of the Euphrates Valley, and a knowledge of the Arab tongue.
Their native servants, who had accompanied them on their previous
expedition, eagerly joined their service for the new venture; camels,
horses, and all necessary supplies for the journey were purchased at
Damascus, and on December 12th, 1879, the start was made.
Though unwilling to travel under false colors as to race or nationality,
the English travellers found it convenient to adopt the Bedouin costume
for the desert journey, to avoid attracting more notice than was
necessary. Their first objective point was Jôf, an important oasis in
the desert, four hundred miles away. Lady Blunt, describing the start
from Damascus, says:
“At first we skirted the city, passing the gate where St. Paul is said to
have entered, and the place where he got over the wall, and then along
the suburb of Maïdan, which is the quarter occupied by Bedouins when they
come to town, and where we had found the Tudmuri and our camels. Here we
were to have met the Jerdeh, and we waited some time outside the Bawâbat
Allah, or ‘Gates of God,’ while Mohammed went in to make inquiries and
take leave of his Tudmuri friends.
“It is in front of this gate that the pilgrims assemble on the day of
their start for Mecca, and from it the Haj road leads away in a nearly
straight line southward. The Haj road is to be our route as far as
Mezárib, and is a broad, well-worn track, though of course not a road at
all according to English ideas. It has, nevertheless, a sort of romantic
interest, one cannot help feeling, going as it does so far and through
such desolate lands, a track so many thousand travellers have followed
never to return. I suppose in its long history a grave may have been dug
for every yard of its course from Damascus to Medina, for, especially on
the return journey, there are constantly deaths among the pilgrims from
weariness and insufficient food.”
A leisurely journey of a week brought the party to Salkhad, a Druse
community at the edge of the desert, where Huseyn, the Sheykh of the
Druses provided them with guides to the Kâf oasis, a five days’ journey
into the desert. On the way to Kâf they passed areas of sand, white as
snow, and encountered violent sand-storms, in one of which they lost a
camel who seized his opportunity to escape back to Mezárib. Beyond Kâf
they met with rather a thrilling adventure, which is thus graphically
described:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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