“Our manner of passing the time was as follows: We used to rise at early
dawn, lock up the house, and go out in the pure cool air of the morning
to some quiet spot among the neighboring palm-groves, or scale the wall
of some garden, or pass right on through the by-lanes to where
cultivation merges in the adjoining sands of the valley; in short, to any
convenient place where we might hope to pass an hour of quiet,
undisturbed by Arab sociability, and have leisure to plan our work for
the day. We would then return home about sunrise, and find outside the
door some tall lad sent by his father, generally one of the wealthier and
more influential inhabitants of the quarter yet unvisited by us, waiting
our return, to invite us to an early breakfast. We would now accompany
our Mercury to his domicile, where a hearty reception, and some neighbors
collected for the occasion, or attracted by a cup of good coffee, were
sure to be in attendance. Here an hour or so would wear away, and some
medical or mercantile transaction be sketched out. We, of course, would
bring the conversation, whenever it was possible, on local topics,
according as those present seemed likely to afford us exact knowledge and
insight into the real state and circumstances of the land. We would then
return to our own quarters, where a crowd of customers, awaiting us,
would allow us neither rest nor pause till noon. Then a short interval
for date or pumpkin eating in some neighbor’s house would occur, and
after that business be again resumed for three or four hours. A walk
among the gardens, rarely alone, more often in company with friends and
acquaintances, would follow; and meanwhile an invitation to supper
somewhere had unfailingly been given and accepted.”
“After supper all rise, wash their hands, and then go out into the open
air to sit and smoke a quiet pipe under the still transparent sky of the
summer evening. Neither mist nor vapor, much less a cloud, appears; the
moon dips down in silvery whiteness to the very verge of the palm-tree
tops, and the last rays of daylight are almost as sharp and clear as the
dawn itself. Chat and society continue for an hour or two, and then
everyone goes home, most to sleep, I fancy, for few Penseroso lamps are
here to be seen at midnight hour, nor does the spirit of Plato stand much
risk of unsphering from the nocturnal studies of the Djowf; we, to write
our journal, or to compare observations and estimate characters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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