“The morning broke on us still toiling amid the sands. By daylight we
saw our straggling companions like black specks here and there, one far
ahead on a yet vigorous dromedary, another in the rear dismounted, and
urging his fallen beast to rise by plunging a knife a good inch deep into
its haunches, a third lagging in the extreme distance. Everyone for
himself and God for us all!—so we quickened our pace, looking anxiously
before us for the hills of Djobbah, which could not now be distant. At
noon we came in sight of them all at once, close on our right, wild and
fantastic cliffs, rising sheer on the margin of the sand sea. We coasted
them awhile, till at a turn the whole plain of Djobbah and its landscape
opened on our view.
“Here we had before us a cluster of black granite rock, streaked with
red, and about seven hundred feet, at a rough guess, in height; beyond
them a large barren plain, partly white and encrusted with salt, partly
green with tillage, and studded with palm-groves, amongst which we could
discern, not far off, the village of Djobbah, much resembling that of
Djowf in arrangement and general appearance, only smaller, and without
castle or tower. Beyond the valley glistened a second line of
sand-hills, but less wild and desolate-looking than those behind us, and
far in the distance the main range of Djebel Shomer, a long purple sierra
of most picturesque outline. Had we there and then mounted, as we
afterward did, the heights on our right, we should have also seen in the
extreme southwest a green patch near the horizon, where cluster the palm
plantations of Teymah, a place famed in Arab history, and by some
supposed identical with the Teman of Holy Writ.
“But for the moment a drop of fresh water and a shelter from the July sun
was much more in our thoughts than all the Teymahs or Temans that ever
existed. My camel, too, was—not at the end of his wits, for he never had
any—but of his legs, and hardly capable of advance, while I was myself
too tired to urge him on vigorously, and we took a fair hour to cross a
narrow white strip of mingled salt and sand that yet intervened between
us and the village.
“Without its garden walls was pitched the very identical tent of our
noble guide, and here his wife and family were anxiously awaiting their
lord. Djedey’ invited us—indeed he could not conformably with Shomer
customs do less—to partake of his board and lodging, and we had no better
course than to accept of both. So we let our camels fling themselves out
like dead or dying alongside of the tabernacle, and entered to drink
water mixed with sour milk.” Here the caravan rested for a day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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