Brazil -- Description and travel; Slavery -- Brazil
About the middle of May I removed to Jaguaribe. The road to it is
through the plantation of Paulistas, from whence, after crossing
the Paratibi, a narrow path leads to the left through a deep wood
for nearly one league. A steep hill is to be surmounted, and its
corresponding declivity carefully descended. The wood continues to a
break in the hill, on the side nearest to Jaguaribe. On reaching this
spot there was a view before me, which would in most situations be
accounted very beautiful, but in this delightful country so many fine
prospects are continually presenting themselves, that I opened upon
this with few feelings of pleasure at the sight. I cannot avoid owning
that the advantages of the place as a plantation occupied my mind more
deeply than its beauties. Immediately before me was a cottage and a row
of negro huts, surrounded by banana-trees, standing upon a shelf of
the hill. Beyond these to the left was the narrow, but far-extending
valley, upon whose nearest border were situated the buildings of
Jaguaribe upon an open field, with the hills behind, and in front was
the rivulet. To the right was a deep dell, with an expanse of country
not thickly covered with wood; and rather in advance, but also to the
right, were numerous deep-coloured mangroves, which pointed out that
a stream of considerable size ran down among them. On the other side
of the nearest of these mangroves, and yet not very far, was the high
peak of St. Bento, with the mandioc, and maize lands, and wood upon
its side, and the path winding up through them, which is at times
concealed, and at times in view;—but the buildings are not to be seen,
though the tolling of the chapel-bell may be often heard, from the spot
upon which I was standing.
I was under the necessity of taking up my abode in the vestry of
the chapel, as the Great House was still occupied. The negroes were
already at work for us, and under the direction of a proper _feitor_
or manager. The whole neighbourhood was astonished at the place I had
determined to inhabit, until some other dwelling presented itself. I
was certainly not comfortably situated, for the vestry consisted of
only one apartment, with a door-way to the field and another into the
church, the latter being without a door; the church was unfinished,
and was the resort of bats and owls; however it was principally my
unconcern respecting ghosts which my neighbours were surprised at.
A negro boy and myself remained at night to encounter these, if any
should appear, and to receive our constant visitors the bats. My
companion rolled himself up upon the ground in a piece of baize and
a mat, and thus cased, was quite safe. I slept in a hammock, and
oftentimes these unwelcome guests alighted upon it, as if they had come
for the chance of a toe or a finger making its appearance, upon which
they might fix. This way of living did not last long, nor did I wish
that it should.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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