FROM KHIVA TO BOKHARA. DEPARTURE FROM KHIVA FOR BOKHARA FERRY ACROSS THE OXUS GREAT HEAT SHURAKHAN MARKET SINGULAR DIALOGUE WITH KIRGHIS WOMAN ON NOMADIC LIFE TÜNÜKLÜ ALAMAN OF THE TEKKE KARAVAN ALARMED RETURNS TO TÜNÜKLÜ FORCED TO THROW ITSELF INTO THE DESERT, 'DESTROYER OF LIFE' THIRST DEATH OF CAMELS DEATH OF A HADJI STORMY WIND PRECARIOUS STATE OF AUTHOR HOSPITABLE RECEPTION AMONGST PERSIAN SLAVES FIRST IMPRESSION OF BOKHARA THE NOBLE. _Et nous marchions à l'heure de midi traversant les souffles brûlants et empestés qui mettent en fusion les fibres du cerveau_. . . _Je m'enfonce dans une plaine poussièreuse dont le sable agité ressemble à un vêtement rayé_.--Victor Hugo, from _Omaïah ben Aiëdz_. [Departure from Khiva for Bokhara] At last, having got all ready for our journey, we gradually assembled in the well-shaded court of Töshebaz. I was able that day for the first time fully to appreciate the influence that the pious charity of the Khivites had exercised upon our mendicant karavan. It was only in the case of the more stingy that we could discern any traces of their former rags: in the place of the torn felt caps, worn amongst the Yomuts, my friends had donned the snow-white turban; all the knapsacks were better filled; and what was most pleasing to see was, that even the poorest of the pilgrims had now his small ass to ride upon. My {145} position was greatly changed, for I had the use of an ass, and half a share in a camel too; the former I was to ride, the latter I was to employ for the transport of my travelling bag containing my clothes (in the strict plural sense), a few MSS. I had purchased, and my provisions. I no longer carried, as I had done in the desert, merely black flour; but white Pogatcha (small cakes baked in the fat of mutton), rice, butter, and even sugar. I still preferred retaining the same dress. True I had come into possession of a shirt, but I took care not to put it on; it might have rendered me effeminate, and it was too soon to indulge in any such luxury. From Khiva to Bokhara we had the option between three routes, (a) by Hezaresp and Fitnek, crossing the Oxus at Kükurtli; (b) by Khanka and Shurakhan on its right bank, with two days of desert from the Oxus to Karaköl; and (c) up the river by water, and then, disembarking at Eltchig, proceeding through the desert to Karaköl. As we had decided to go by land, our Kervanbashi's Tadjik from Bokhara, named Aymed, left it to us to choose between the first two ways. We had, in company with a dealer in clothes from Khiva, hired the camels from Aymed, and the latter had recommended us the route by Khanka as, at this period of the year, the safest and easiest.