Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
I found my fellow-travellers, and we proceeded together to rejoin the
karavan, now five leagues distant. The day was intensely hot; but,
happily, here and there we came, in spite of the sandiness of the
land, upon Kirghis' tents, and I had only to approach one of them for
the women to make their appearance with their skins, when a regular
squabble arose amongst them if I did not accept a drink from everyone.
To quicken thus a thirsty traveller in the heat of summer, is regarded
as the supreme degree of hospitality, and you confer a kindness upon a
Kirghis when you give him an occasion to carry out its laws. The
karavan was waiting our arrival with the greatest impatience: they
were upon the point of starting, as henceforth we began to march only
by night, a great solace both {152} for us and for the cattle.
Immediately upon our coming up the move began, and bewitching was the
view by the clear moonlight of the karavan winding onwards, the Oxus
rolling with a dull sound on our right, and the fearful desert of
Tartary on our left. The next morning we encamped on an elevated bank
of the same river. The district there bears the name of Töyeboyun
(camel's neck), probably from the curves described by the bank: it is
inhabited in certain months of the year by Kirghis. In an interval of
ten hours I saw in our neighbourhood three families of them, who in
turn remained near us, but at most only three hours, when they moved
on further. Nothing could give me a more vivid picture of nomadic
life; and when I afterwards questioned a Kirghis woman respecting this
unsettled mode of existence, she answered, laughingly, 'We shall, I am
certain, never be so indolent as you Mollahs, and remain sitting days
and days in one place! Man must keep moving; for, behold, sun, moon,
stars, water, beast, bird, fish, all are in movement; it is but the
dead and the earth that remain in their place!' I was upon the point
of making many objections to the philosophy of this nomadic lady, when
a cry was heard from a distance, in which I could distinguish the word
Büri! Büri! (the wolf, the wolf). She hurried like lightning to the
herd that was grazing afar off, and her shouting had such an effect
that this time the wolf contented himself with the fat tail of a
sheep, and with it took to his heels. I felt very disposed to ask her,
as she returned, what advantages resulted from the wolf keeping
'moving,' but she was too much troubled by the loss she had sustained,
and I returned to the karavan.
{153}
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