Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
We passed three days in the sandy parts of the desert. We had now to
gain the firm plain, and come in sight of the Khalata mountain, that
stretches away toward the north. Unhappily, disappointment again
awaited us. Our beasts were incapable of further exertion, and we
passed a fourth day in the sand. I had still left about six glasses of
water in my leathern bottle. These I drank drop by drop, suffering, of
course, terribly from thirst. Greatly alarmed to find that my tongue
began to turn a little black in the centre, I immediately drank off at
a draught half of my remaining store, thinking so to save my life;
but, oh! the burning sensation, followed by headache, became more
violent towards the morning of the fifth day, and when we could just
distinguish, about mid-day, the Khalata mountains from the clouds that
surrounded them, I felt my strength gradually abandon me. {161} The
nearer we approached the mountains, the thinner the sand became, and
all eyes were searching eagerly to discover a drove of cattle or
shepherd's hut, when the Kervanbashi and his people drew our attention
to a cloud of dust that was approaching, and told us to lose no time
in dismounting from the camels. These poor brutes knew well enough
that it was the Tebbad that was hurrying on; uttering a loud cry, they
fell on their knees, stretched their long necks along the ground, and
strove to bury their heads in the sand. We entrenched ourselves behind
them, lying there as behind a wall (_see Plate_); and scarcely had we,
in our turn, knelt under their cover, than the wind rushed over us
with a dull, clattering sound, leaving us, in its passage, covered
with a crust of sand two fingers thick. The first particles that
touched me seemed to burn like a rain of flakes of fire. Had we
encountered it when we were six miles deeper in the desert, we should
all have perished. I had not time to make observations upon the
disposition to fever and vomiting caused by the wind itself, but the
air became heavier and more oppressive than before.
[Illustration]
Tebbad--Sand Storm in the Desert.
Where the sand comes entirely to an end, three different ways are
visible: the first (22 miles long) passes by Karaköl; the second (18
miles), through the plain to the immediate vicinity of Bokhara; the
third (20 miles) traverses the mountains where water is to be met
with, but it is inaccessible to camels on account of its occasional
steepness. We took, as it had been previously determined, the middle
route, the shortest, particularly as we were animated by the hope of
finding water amongst those who tended their flocks there. Towards
evening we reached fountains that had not yet been visited this year
by the {162} shepherds; the water, undrinkable by man, still refreshed
our beasts. We were ourselves all very ill, like men half dead,
without any animation but that which proceeded from the now
well-grounded hope that we should all be saved!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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