Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
I took leave of all my friends and acquaintances. Rahmet Bi gave me
letters of introduction for Samarcand, and I promised to wait upon the
Emir there. The Khokand vehicle, which we had hired to convey us as
far as Samarcand, had been previously sent on to wait for us at the
village Baveddin, to which place of pilgrimage we had now, according
to the custom of the country, to pay our second visit--our visit of
adieu. This village is distant two leagues from Bokhara, and is, as
before said, the place of {195} interment of the renowned Baha-ed-din
Nakishbend, founder of the order bearing the same name, and the chief
fountain of all those extravagances of religion which distinguish
Eastern from Western Islamism. Without entering into more details,
suffice it to mention, that Baha-ed-din is venerated as the national
saint of Turkestan, as a second Mohammed; and the Bokhariot is firmly
persuaded that the cry alone of a 'Baha-ed-din belagerdan' [Footnote
60] is sufficient to save from all misfortune. Pilgrimages are made to
this place even from the most remote parts of China. It is the
practice in Bokhara to come hither every week, and the intercourse is
maintained with the metropolis by means of about 300 asses that ply
for hire. These stand before the Dervaze Mezar, and may be had for a
few Pul (small copper coins). Although the road, in many places,
passes over deep sand, these animals run with indescribable speed on
their journey to the village; but, what is considered very surprising,
they cannot, without repeated blows, be induced to return. The
Bokhariot ascribes this circumstance to the feeling of devotion that
the saint inspires even in brutes; for do they not run to his tomb,
and evince the greatest indisposition to quit it?
[Footnote 60: 'O Baha-ed-din, thou avevter of evil!']
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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