Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
After a sojourn of three days, we started for Kerki, distant only
fourteen miles: there is but one road. Our party now only consisted,
in addition to myself, of Mollah Ishak (such was the name of the
Mollah from Kungrat), and two other Hadjis. At the distance of two
miles from Karshi we passed through a large and, as I understood, a
rich village, named Feizabad, and spent half the night in the ruins of
a cistern: there are many in these parts, all dating from the time of
Abdullah Khan. Although security reigned everywhere, we were advised
that we ought to be upon our guard when we were farther from Karshi,
as there were already Turkomans about not to be depended upon. Posting
our asses in a corner of the ruins, we laid ourselves down in the
front part of it upon our knapsacks, and so slept alternately, until
towards midnight. We then started again, in order to reach our
intended station before noon. We arrived long before that period at
the cistern Sengsulak. On seeing it at a distance surrounded by tents
and feeding flocks, we rejoiced, for we felt now certain to find
water, which we had before doubted, and therefore had loaded our {228}
asses with that necessary article. The high dome-like arch of the
cistern, although more than 200 years old, is quite uninjured, as also
are some recesses in it that afford shade to travellers. The cistern,
situated in the lower part of a valley, is completely filled, not only
by the melting of the snows in the spring, but by rains. We found it
then only three feet deep, and surrounded by 200 tents of the Özbegs,
from the tribes of Kungrat and Nayman; their cattle, and their
children in a complete state of nudity, were splashing about in it,
and spoiling its flavour a little. As from here to Kerki is reckoned
six miles, we wished, for the sake of our beasts, to make this
tolerably long station a night journey, and to employ the day in
sleeping. Our repose was soon disturbed, for the nomad girls had got
scent of our glass beads. They hurried to us with huge wooden plates
of camel's milk and mare's milk, to entice us to exchange.
An hour after sunset we started; it was a clear fine night. We had
hardly got four leagues on our journey, when we all, simultaneously
overpowered by sleep, sank down and slumbered with the reins of rope
still in our hands. We were soon, however, awakened by horsemen, who
reproached us with our imprudence, and incited us to continue our
march. We sprang up, and, partly proceeding on foot and partly riding,
reached at sunrise the Oxus. On the nearer bank stands the little
citadel; on the further one, upon a steep hill, the frontier fortress
round which lies spread the city Kerki.
[Oxus; Author charged with being runaway Slave.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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