Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
_Andkhuy has bitter salt water, scorching sand, venomous flies, and
even scorpions. Vaunt if not, for it is the picture of a real hell._
And yet, in spite of all these disadvantages, Andkhuy was, only thirty
years ago, very flourishing. It is said to have had a population of
50,000 souls. They carried on an important traffic with Persia in the
fine black sheep-skins called by us Astrakhan, and even seriously
rivalled Bokhara, where this article is produced of first-rate
quality. The camels of Andkhuy are the most in request throughout
Turkestan, particularly a kind called Ner, distinguished by abundant
hair streaming down from the neck and breast, a slim slender figure,
and extraordinary strength. These animals have become scarce; the
inhabitants themselves having for the most part either emigrated or
perished.
Mollah Ishak had a countryman here, who was one of the most
distinguished Imams, and as he had invited us, I found an opportunity
to become acquainted with the chief residents of the spiritual order.
I was much struck by the great disorder reigning in the regulations,
both as to justice and religion. The Kazi Kelan (superior judge), who
in Bokhara and {240} Khiva is a great man, plays here the part of a
buffoon. Every one does as he thinks fit, and even the most atrocious
crime can be compounded for by a present. The consequence is, that the
inhabitants speak of Bokhara as the model of justice, of piety, and
earthly grandeur, and would think themselves quite happy if the Emir
would only condescend to take them under his sceptre. An old Özbeg
remarked to me that 'even the Frenghi (English) (God pardon him his
sins!) would be better than the present Musselman Government.' He
added that he still remembered a Hekim Bashi (Moorcroft) who died in
his uncle's house in the time of the Emir Haydar; that he was a clever
magician and good physician; that he might have become as rich as he
pleased; but with all these advantages he remained unassuming and
condescending towards every one, even towards women. I made many
enquiries respecting the death of this traveller, and all agreed in
their accounts, that he had died of fever; which is indeed far more
probable than the story of his having been poisoned.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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