Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
The karavan was here taken under the protection of an escort of
Djemshidi, sent to meet us by their Khan from Bala Murgab, because the
route henceforth lay through a tolerably broad valley, having the
habitations of the Sarik Turkomans on the right side, and of the
mountaineer robbers, the Firuzkuhi, on the left. The land is
exceedingly fertile, but it lies there, unhappily, fallow and without
an owner. As I heard, the karavan during its whole journey from
Bokhara had not incurred such peril as it did here. Our guard
consisted of thirty Djemshidi, well armed and well mounted, with the
addition of about double the number of able-bodied men from the
karavan; nevertheless, at every step in advance, vedettes were thrown
out to our right hand and to our left upon the hills, and all were in
the greatest anxiety. It can readily be imagined in what a state of
mind were the poor emancipated slaves, who at great trouble and
expense had escaped thus far, and who now saw themselves menaced with
a new captivity.
The size of the karavan and the precautions taken happily saved us
from surprise. We passed the whole day through magnificent meadows,
which in {256} spite of the advanced season of the year, were covered
with flowers and grass that came up to our knees: and after having
reposed during the night we arrived the following morning at the ruins
of the fortress Kalè Veli: it was peopled only two years ago, but had
been surprised and plundered by a great Alaman of the Sarik-Turkomans.
The inhabitants had been partly sold as slaves and partly massacred,
the few empty houses still existing and the walls of the fortification
will soon be a complete ruin. The Djemshidi horsemen, who thus far had
only been our escort a single day, now demanded their whip-money;
every one who travelled mounted or on foot was to pay it once, but the
slaves twofold. The escort affirmed that their present claim was well
founded, as they would not receive any portion of the toll-money paid
to the Khan in Bala Murgab.
Towards evening, on the second day after we had left Tchitchektoo, we
reached the end of that beautiful valley, and the way, leading to the
river Murgab, traversed a rough mountainous pass, in many places very
steep, and at the same time so narrow that loaded camels advancing
singly could with difficulty wind their way through; it is said to be
the only practicable passage leading over the mountain to the bank of
the river. A body of troops that wished to cross the Murgab would have
either to pass through the desert (and for this they must be on good
terms with the Salor and the Sarik), or make their way through this
pass, for which enterprise the friendship of the Djemshidi is
essential, as their hostility might in the defiles be prejudicial even
to the strongest army.
{257}
It was midnight when we arrived on the banks of the river; worn out by
their painful mountainous journey, men and beasts all fell into a
profound sleep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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