Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
The bazaar itself, dating from Herat's epoch of splendour, the reign
of the Sultan Husein Mirza, and consequently about four hundred years
old, deserved still, even in its ruins, the epithet beautiful. It is
said, in earlier times, to have formed an entire street, from the
Dervaze Arak to the Dervaze Kandahar. [Footnote 81] Of course, at
present, the shops in the bazaar begin to open again, but only by
degrees. The last siege and plundering of the city could not fail to
prove a great discourager. Indeed, under the rapacious system of
duties introduced by the Afghans, trade and manufacture have little
prosperity opened to them; for it is extraordinary, indeed incredible,
what taxes are extorted from both seller and purchaser, upon every
article that is sold. They seem, besides, to be regulated by no fixed
scale, but to be quite arbitrary. One has to pay a duty, for instance,
for a pair of boots that has cost originally five francs, one and a
half francs; for a cap, worth two francs, one franc; for a fur that
has been purchased for eight francs, three francs; and so on. Every
article imported or exported is stamped by tax-collectors, having
offices in the bazaar and in different parts of the city.
[Footnote 81: Unlike the other gates this one suffered little during
the siege. The Herati pretend that it can never he demolished,
because built by the English, who lay brick over brick only as
justice directs, unlike the Afghans, who mix the mortar with the
tears of oppression.]
The original inhabitants of the city were Persians, and belonging to
the race that spread itself from Sistan towards the north-east, and
formed the ancient province of Khorasan, of which, until recent days,
that remained the capital. In later times, the immigrations, of which
Djenghis and Timour were the cause, {273} led to the infusion of
Turco-Tartaric blood into the veins of the ancient population. The
collective name Char-Aimak is the result, as well as the subdivision
of the people into the Djemshidi, Firuzkuhi, Teïmeni or Timouri. These
are races of different origin, and can only from a political point of
view be regarded as one single nation. Thus far of the inhabitants of
the Djölghei Herat.
The fortress itself is inhabited, for the most part, by Persians, who
settled here in the last century, to maintain and spread the influence
of their own country. They are now principally handicraftsmen or
merchants. As for Afghans, one cannot find in the city more than one
in five. They have become quite Persians, and are, particularly since
the last siege, very hostile to their own countrymen. A Kabuli, or a
Kaker from Kandahar, is as much regarded by him in the light of an
oppressor, and therefore is as much detested, as by the aboriginal
natives of Herat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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