Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
On the 28th March, the very same day on which, in the previous year, I
had commenced my journey through Central Asia, I quitted Teheran on my
route to Trebisond by Tabris. As far as the latter city we had the
finest spring weather, and it is unnecessary for me to say what my
feelings were when I called to mind the corresponding date in the past
year. Then each step in advance took me further towards the haunts of
savage barbarism, and of unimaginable dangers; now, each step carried
me back nearer to civilised lands, and my own beloved country. I was
very much touched by the sympathy which, on my way, I received from
Europeans, as in Tabris, from my distinguished Swiss friends, Messrs.
Hanhart & Company, and Mr. Abbot, the English Vice-consul; in
Trebisond, from the Italian Consul Mr. Bosio, and also from my learned
friend, Dr. O. Blau, and particularly from Herr Dragorich, the former
the Prussian, the latter the Austrian Consul. All these gentlemen, by
their obligingness and friendly reception, bound me to them eternally.
They knew the hardships that attend travelling in the East, and their
acknowledgment of them is the sweetest reward that can fall to the lot
of the traveller.
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As, after having been in Kurdistan, I was no longer able to
distinguish in the countenance of the Osmanli anything Oriental, so
now I could see in Stamboul nothing but, as it were, a gorgeous drop
curtain to an unreal Eastern existence. I could only indulge myself
with a stay of three hours on the shore of the Bosphorus. I was glad,
however, still to find time to wait upon the indefatigable savant and
diplomat Baron von Prokesh-Osten, whose kind counsels with reference
to the compilation of my narrative I have kept constantly before my
eyes. Hence I proceeded to Pesth by Küstendje, where I left behind me
my brother Dervish [Footnote 94] from Kungrat, who had accompanied me
all the way from Samarcand; for the joy of tarrying long in my
fatherland was not allowed me, as I was desirous, before the close of
the season, of delivering an account of my journey to the Royal
Geographical Society of England--an object furthered and obtained for
me by the kind recommendations of my friends. I arrived in London on
the 9th of June, 1864, where it cost me incredible trouble to accustom
myself to so sudden and extreme a change as that from Bokhara to
London.
[Footnote 94: It is needless for me to picture to the reader how
this poor Khivite, transplanted by me to the capital of Hungary
instead of being permitted to proceed to Mecca, was amazed, and how
he talked! What most astonished him was the good-nature of the
Frenghis, that they had not yet put him to death, a fate which,
drawing his conclusions from the corresponding experience amongst
his countrymen, he had apprehended.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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