Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
Bazaars or shops for sale equal to those which we meet with in Persia,
and in other Oriental cities, do not exist in Khiva. The following
only deserve any mention. Tim, a small well-built bazaar, with
tolerably high vaulted ceilings, containing about 120 shops and a
karavanserai. Here are exposed all the cloth, {331} hardware, fancy
articles, linen, and cotton that the Russian commerce supplies, as
well as the inconsiderable produce proceeding from Bokhara and Persia.
Around the Tim are also to be seen Nanbazari (bread market),
Bakalbazari (grocers), Shembazari (the soap and candle market), and
the Sertrashbazari (from ten to twelve barbers' rooms, where the heads
are shaved: I say the heads, for the man would be regarded as out of
his senses or would be punished with death who should have his beard
shaved).
I must also class amongst the bazaars the Kitchik Kervanserai, where
the slaves brought by the Tekke and the Yomuts are exposed for sale.
But for this article of business Khiva itself could not exist, as the
culture of the land is entirely in the hands of the slaves. When we
come to speak of Bokhara, we will treat this subject more at large.
_Mosques_.
There are few mosques in Khiva of much antiquity or artistic
construction. Those that follow alone deserve notice. (1) Hazreti
Pehlivan, an edifice four centuries old, consisting of one large and
two small domes; it contains the tomb of Pehlivan Ahmed Zemtchi, a
revered saint, patron of the city of Khiva. Its exterior promises
little, although the Kashi (ornamental tiles) of the interior are
tasteful, but unfortunately the place itself is dark, and the
insufficiency of the lighting of the interior leaves much that the eye
cannot distinguish. Both inside the dome and in the courts leading to
it there are always swarms of blind practitioners of the _memoria
technica_, who know the Koran by heart from frequent {332} repetition,
and are ever reciting passages from it. (2) Another mosque is the
Djüma-a-Mesdjidi, which the Khan attends on Fridays, and where the
official Khutbe (prayer for the ruling sovereign) is read. (3)
Khanmesdjidi, in the interior of the citadel. (4) Shaleker, which owes
its construction to a farmer. (5) Atamurad Kushbeghi. (6)
Karayüzmesdjidi.
_Medresse_(Colleges).
The number of colleges and their magnificent endowments are, in
Central Asia, always a criterion of the degree of prosperity and
religious instruction of the population; and when we consider the
limited means at their disposal, we cannot but laud the zeal and the
readiness to make sacrifices, evinced both by King and subject, when a
college is about to be founded and endowed. Bokhara, the oldest seat
of Islamite civilisation in Central Asia, is a pattern in this
respect; but some colleges exist in Khiva also, and of these we shall
particularly mention the following:
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