Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
We may remark, generally, that the colleges of Bokhara and Samarcand
are the cause why so high an idea not only prevailed throughout Islam,
but existed for a long time even amongst Europeans, as to the learning
of the superior schools in Central Asia. The readiness to make the
sacrifice which the foundation of such establishments supposes, may by
a superficial observer be easily mistaken and ascribed to a higher
motive. {365} Unhappily, merely blind fanaticism lies at the root; and
the same thing occurs here as took place during the middle ages, for,
with the exception of what is given in a few books upon Mantik (logic)
and Hikmet (philosophy), there is no instruction at all but in the
Koran, and religious casuistry. Now and then, perhaps, one may be
found who would like to busy himself with poetry and history, but his
studies must be in secret, as it is regarded as a disgrace to devote
oneself to any such frivolous subjects. The aggregate number of
students has been represented to me as about 5,000; they flock
thither, not merely out of all parts of Central Asia, but also from
India, Kashmir, Afghanistan, Russia, and China. The poorer receive an
annual pension from the Emir, for it is by means of these Medresse,
and its severe observance of Islamism, that Bokhara is able to
exercise a spiritual influence upon neighbouring countries.
_Bazaars._
There are none here like those in the chief cities of Persia. Very few
are vaulted or built of stone; the larger ones are covered over either
with wood or reed mattings laid across long perches. [Footnote 127]
[Footnote 127: They are separated into different parts, as Tirm
Abdullah Khan, the above-mentioned prince, had them built according
to Persian models on his return from Persia in 1582. Restei
Suzenghiran, haberdashers; R. Saraffan, where the money-changers and
booksellers station themselves; R. Zergheran, workers in gold; R.
Tchilingheran, locksmiths; R. Attari, dealers in spices; R. Kannadi,
confectioners; R. Tchayfurnshi, tea-dealers; R. Tchitfuroshi,
dealers in chintz; Bazari Latta, linendrapers; Timche darayfurushi,
grocers; and so on.]
{366}
Each bazaar has its particular Aksakal, responsible to the Emir for
order, as well as for taxes. In addition to the bazaars there are,
perhaps, altogether about thirty small karavanserais, used partly as
warehouses, and partly for the reception of strangers.
_Police._
The system of police in Bokhara is more severe than in any other city
of known parts of Asia. By day the Reis himself perambulates the
bazaars and public places, and he sends out his numerous dependents
and spies; and about two hours after sunset no one dares to show
himself in the streets, neighbour cannot visit neighbour, and the sick
man runs the risk of perishing for want of medical aid, for the Emir
has declared that the Mirshebs (night-watchers) may even arrest
himself should they meet him abroad during the forbidden hours.
THE KHANAT OF BOKHARA.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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