Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
APPROACH FROM WEST
ADMINISTRATION
INHABITANTS
CITIES.
The traveller who journeys on during twelve days in an easterly
direction from Oosh, will reach the Chinese territory at the point
where stands the city of Kashgar. The way thither leads him over a
mountainous country, where the Kiptchaks are wandering about with
their herds. No villages, it is said, ever existed in this district,
except in the time of Djenghis Khan, and then only here and there. At
the present day it is not possible to trace even their ruins. Places
blackened by fire and heaps of stones indicate the spots used by
travellers and karavans for their stations. Although the Kiptchaks are
wild and warlike, they do not attack solitary travellers. Large
karavans coming from China are bound to pay a moderate tribute, in
other respects no one is disturbed. At the distance of a single day's
journey from Kashgar one arrives at a blockhouse, the first post of
the Chinese, occupied by 10 soldiers and an accountant. No one is
permitted to proceed unless furnished with a pass drawn up by the
Aksakal in Namengan, who acts as a sort of paid agent for the Chinese.
After {398} the traveller has exhibited his pass, he is interrogated
in detail respecting everything that he has seen and heard in foreign
parts. The accountant makes two copies of the report, one is given to
the nearest post to be compared with the answer to a similar
interrogation there; this document is forwarded to the governor whom
it concerns. According to the statements of Hadji Bilal and my other
friends, in Chinese Tartary it is most advisable on such occasions to
employ the formula 'Belmey-men' (I know not). [Footnote 143] It is
not the practice to force a man to reply in detail, and indeed no one
has power to compel him to do so, and the accountant himself prefers
the shorter answer, which lightens the functions he has to perform.
[Footnote 143: The Chinese have besides a proverb quite in
accordance with this rule, for they say:
'Bedjidu yikha le
Djidu shi kha-le.'
'I know not, is one word; I know, is ten words,' that is to say,
'Saying "I know not," you have said everything; but saying "I know,"
your interrogator will put more questions, and you will have
necessarily more to say.']
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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