Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
Without being able to discover the slightest trace of a path indicated
by foot of camel or hoof of other animal, our karavan proceeded
towards the north, directing its course in the day by the sun, and at
night by the pole star. The latter is called by the Turkomans, from
its immovability, Temir kazik (the iron peg). The camels were attached
to one another in a long row, and led by a man on foot; and, although
there was no positive place of honour, it was regarded as a certain
sort of distinction to be placed near the Kervanbashi. The districts
on the further side of Etrek, which form the foreground of the Great
Desert, are indicated by the name of Bogdayla. We proceeded for two
hours after sunset over a sandy bottom, which was not however
particularly loose, and which presented an undulating, wavy surface,
in no place of much elevation. By degrees the sand disappeared, and
about midnight we had so firm a clayey soil under us, {91} that the
regulated tread of the distant camels echoed as if some one was
beating time in the still night. The Turkomans name such spots Takir;
and as the one on which we were had a reddish colour, it bore the name
Kizil-takir. We marched uninterruptedly till it was nearly dawn of
day; altogether we had hardly advanced six miles, as they did not wish
at the outset to distress the camels, but especially because the
greatest personages in our company of travellers were unquestionably
the buffaloes, of which one was in an interesting situation, and could
not with her unwieldy body keep up even with the ordinary step of the
camel,--consequently there was a halt for repose until eight o'clock
in the morning; and whilst the camels were eating their fill of
thistles and other plants of the desert, we had time to take our
breakfast, which had not yet ceased to be luxurious, as our skins were
still richly stored with fresh water, and so our heavy unleavened
bread slipped down aided by its sweet draughts. As we had encamped
close together, I remarked that the Kervanbashi, Ilias, and the chiefs
of my companions, were conversing, and, as they did so, kept casting
glances at me. It was easy for me to divine the subject of their
conversation. I pretended, however, to pay no attention; and after
having for some time fervently turned over the leaves of the Koran, I
made a movement as if I had proposed to take part in the conversation.
When I had approached a few steps, I was met by honest Ilias and Hadji
Salih, who called me aside and told me that the Kervanbashi was making
many objections to my joining him on the journey to Khiva, my
appearance seeming suspicious to him; and he particularly feared the
anger of the Khan, as he had some years before {92} conducted a
Frenghi envoy to Khiva, who, in that single journey, took off a
faithful copy of the whole route, and with his diabolical art had not
forgotten to delineate any well or any hill on the paper. This had
very much incensed the Khan; he had had two men executed who had
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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