Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
As none but Yomuts were encamped here, it was resolved to
make it a rest-day, and to employ it for the purchase of some camels.
This accorded fully with my own wish, as it afforded me the
opportunity of beholding the ruins from a closer proximity.
The next morning (May 17) I started, accompanied by Ilias and some of
the pilgrims. I was obliged to use many pretexts to induce the latter
to visit a spot which they would have preferred avoiding {100} as the
abode of Djins (genii). It was distant about half a league from our
encampment, although the high walls of the square building, as well as
the two entire and the two half-ruined towers in form of domes, seemed
to be nearer to us. Around these, and encircling the high wall, from
six to eight feet broad and from forty to fifty high, there is a lower
one, on the south side, quite in ruins, which must have served as an
outwork to the fort, still erect; I regard the entire construction, as
it rises amongst the other heaps of dilapidation, as a fortress of
ancient date; and I think, to complete its system of defence, its
builders must have formed the aqueduct, which runs in a south-westerly
direction as far as the Persian chain of mountains, whence it brought
hither to the fortress water, for drinking purposes, a distance of 150
English miles.
My acquaintance with archaeology and architecture being limited, I
admit my incompetency to form any precise judgment respecting ruins,
certainly of high interest, except that I believe myself justified in
affirming them to be of Greek origin, because I have found the square
bricks which compose them to resemble exactly, in quality, size, and
colour, those of Gömüshtepe, and the Kizil Alan (Alexander's wall).
[Footnote 22]
[Footnote 22: The Turkomans recounted, with respect to the ruins,
that God, from especial love to the brave Turkomans, had placed the
Kaaba first here instead of transporting it to Arabia, but that a
green devil, who was at the same time lame, named Gökleng (green
hobbler) from whom the Göklens were descended, had destroyed it.
'The insolent act of their ancestor is the reason,' added the savage
etymologist, 'why we live in hostility with that tribe.']
{101}
Besides these, I remarked a group of other ruins on the north summit
of the Körentaghi. We passed them by night, and as far as I could
distinguish in the obscurity, there are six separate dome-like chapels
still standing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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