Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
Thunder, heard for hours at a distance, not coming near to us till
midnight, and then only bringing a few heavy drops of rain, was the
herald that announced to us the end of our torments. Towards the
morning of the 24th May we had reached the extreme boundary of the
sand through which we had toiled during three days; we were now
certain to find this day rain-water wherever we should meet a sub-soil
of clay. The Kervanbashi had found a confirmation of this hope in the
traces of numbers of gazelles and wild asses; he did not betray his
thoughts but hastened on, and was in effect the first happy one to
discover with his ferret eyes, and to point out to the karavan, a
little lake of rain-water. 'Su! Su!' (water, water) shouted all {114}
for joy; and the mere sight, without wetting the lips, satisfied the
craving and quieted our uneasiness. At noon we reached the spot. We
afterwards found, in addition to our previous discovery, other pits
filled with the sweetest water. I was one of the first to hurry
thither with my skin and vessels--not to drink, but rather to collect
the water before it was disturbed and converted into mire by the
crowd. In half-an-hour everybody in a rapture was seated at his
breakfast; it is quite impossible to convey an idea of the general
delight. From this station, called Deli Ata, all the way to Khiva our
skins were constantly full, and henceforth our journey in the desert
may be styled, if not an agreeable, at least free from uneasiness. In
the evening we reached a spot where spring reigned in all its glory.
We encamped in the midst of countless little lakes, surrounded as it
were by garlands of meadows; it seemed a dream when I compared it with
our encampment of the previous day. To complete our delight, we were
here informed that all fear of a surprise, that we most dreaded, was
at an end, but it was recommended that for this night we should still
abstain from lighting fires. It must not be omitted that the sons of
the desert ascribed the unexpected abundance of water solely to our
pious Hadji character. We filled our skins and started again in
excellent spirits.
[Arrival at the Plateau Kaftankir]
This evening we reached the trench for which we had so longed. On the
further side of it is the plateau Kaflankir (tiger field). It marks
the commencement of the territory forming the Khanat of Khiva.
{115}
[Ancient Bed of Oxus]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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