Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to CantonBarrow, John, Sir
History
Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to Canton
Barrow, John, Sir
China -- Description and travel
For reasons of state, which will be noticed hereafter, the Emperor
rarely shews himself in public among the Chinese part of his subjects,
except on such occasions; and even then the exhibition is confined
within the precincts of the palace from which the populace are entirely
excluded. Consistent with their system of sumptuary laws there is little
external appearance of pomp or magnificence in the establishment of the
Emperor. The buildings that compose the palace and the furniture within
them, if we except the paint, the gilding, and the varnish, that appear
on the houses even of plebeians, are equally void of unnecessary and
expensive ornaments. Those who should rely on the florid relations, in
which the missionaries and some travellers have indulged in their
descriptions of the palaces of Pekin and those of _Yuen-min-yuen_, would
experience on visiting them a woful disappointment. These buildings,
like the common habitations of the country, are all modelled after the
form of a tent, and are magnificent only by a comparison with the others
and by their number, which is sufficient, indeed, to form a town of
themselves. Their walls are higher than those of ordinary houses, their
wooden columns of greater diameter, their roofs are immense, and a
greater variety of painting and gilding may be bestowed on the different
parts; but none of them exceeds one story in height, and they are
jumbled and surrounded with mean and insignificant hovels. Some writer
has observed that the King of England is worse lodged at Saint James's
palace than any sovereign in Europe. Were I to compare some of the
imperial palaces in China to any royal residence in Europe it would
certainly be to Saint James's; but the apartments, the furniture, and
conveniences of the latter, bad as they are, infinitely transcend any of
those in China. The stone or clay floors are indeed sometimes covered
with a carpet of English broad-cloth, and the walls papered; but they
have no glass in the windows, no stoves, fire-places, or fire-grates in
the rooms; no sofas, bureaux, chandeliers, nor looking-glasses; no
book-cases, prints, nor paintings. They have neither curtains nor sheets
to their beds; a bench of wood, or a platform of brick-work, is raised
in an alcove, on which are mats or stuffed mattresses, hard pillows, or
cushions, according to the season of the year; instead of doors they
have usually skreens, made of the fibres of bamboo. In short, the
wretched lodgings of the state-officers at the court of Versailles, in
the time of the French monarchy, were princely palaces in comparison of
those allotted to the first ministers of the Emperor of China, in the
capital as well as at _Yuen-min-yuen_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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