Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to CantonBarrow, John, Sir
History
Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to Canton
Barrow, John, Sir
China -- Description and travel
Although an extraordinary crowd might be expected to assemble on such a
particular occasion, on the same principle of curiosity as could not
fail to attract a crowd of spectators in London, yet there was a most
remarkable and a striking difference observable between a London and a
Pekin populace. In the former the whole attention and soul of the
multitude would have been wrapt up in the novel spectacle; all would
have been idlers. In Pekin, the shew was but an accessary; every one
pursued his business, at the same time that he gratified his curiosity.
In fact, it appeared that, on every day throughout the whole year, there
was the same noise and bustle and crowd in the capital of China. I
scarcely ever passed the western gate, which happened twice, or oftener,
in the week, that I had not to wait a considerable time before the
passage was free, particularly in the morning, notwithstanding the
exertions of two or three soldiers with their whips to clear the way.
The crowd, however, was entirely confined to the great streets, which
are the only outlets of the city. In the cross lanes all was still and
quiet.
Women in Pekin were commonly seen among the crowd, or walking in the
narrow streets, or riding on horseback, which they crossed in the same
manner as the men, but they were all Tartars. They wore long silken
robes, reaching down to their feet; their shoes appeared to be as much
above the common size, as those of the Chinese are under it; the upper
part was generally of embroidered satin, the sole consisted of folds of
cloth or paper, about an inch thick; they were square in front, and a
little turned up. The hair smoothed up on all sides, not very different
from that of the Chinese; and though their faces were painted with white
lead and vermillion, it was evident their skins were much fairer than
those of the former. The Chinese women are more scrupulously confined to
the house in the capital than elsewhere. Young girls were sometimes seen
smoking their pipes in the doors of their houses, but they always
retired on the approach of men.
All the streets were covered with sand and dust: none had the least
pavement. The cross lanes were generally watered, which did not appear
to be the case in the main streets. A large sheet of water, several
acres in extent, within the northern wall, affords to that part of the
city, and to the palace an abundant supply of that element, as does also
a small stream which runs along the western wall to that neighbourhood.
There are besides abundance of wells; but the water of some of these is
so dreadfully nauseous, that we, who were unaccustomed to it, were under
the necessity of sending to a distance to obtain such as was free from
mineral or earthy impregnations. When mixed with tea, the well water was
particularly disgusting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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