Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to CantonBarrow, John, Sir
History
Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to Canton
Barrow, John, Sir
China -- Description and travel
On returning to the capital we passed through the great street of a town
called _Hai-tien_ in which most of the houses were of two stories, and
before the upper of which was a kind of Véranda full of dwarf trees and
flower-pots. A great proportion of the houses were either butchers'
shops or coffin-makers. From the end of this street was a most extensive
view of Pekin and the surrounding country. The eye from hence took in
the whole length of the high straight wall with its two lofty gates and
numerous square towers. At each angle of the wall is a large square
building rising above the parapet to four heights or stories of
port-holes, and covered with two roofs. In each row of the four fronts
are fourteen windows or port-holes. These I understood to be the rice
magazines or public granaries. Near the north-west angle is a tall
pagoda, another high tower not unlike a glass-house, and towards the
higher western gate appeared the upper part of a pyramidal building that
terminated in a gilded flame, very like the summit of our Monument under
which, instead of a gallery, was a most magnificent canopy or umbrella,
painted and gilt with such brilliant colours, that from certain points
of view, when the rays of the sun played upon it, the glittering
appearance had a very good effect. It was said to be a temple, and
seemed to be of the same kind of architecture as the _Shoo-ma-doo_
described by Col. Symes in his embassy to Ava.
We found our new lodging sufficiently large, but the apartments were
shamefully dirty, having been uninhabited for some time; very much out
of repair, and totally unfurnished. This house, being considered be one
of the best in the whole city, I shall have occasion to take notice of
hereafter, in speaking of the state of their architecture. It was built
by the late _Ho-poo_, or Collector of the customs at Canton, from which
situation he was preferred to the collectorship of salt duties at
_Tien-sing_, where, it seems, he was detected in embezzling the public
revenues, thrown into jail, and his immense property confiscated to the
crown. The officers appointed to attend the embassy told us, that when
it was proposed to the Emperor for the English Embassador to occupy this
house, he immediately replied, "Most certainly, you cannot refuse the
temporary occupation of a house to the Embassador of that nation which
contributed so very amply towards the expense of building it." The
inference to be drawn from such a remark, is, that the court of Pekin is
well aware of the extortions committed against foreigners at Canton.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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