Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to CantonBarrow, John, Sir
History
Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to Canton
Barrow, John, Sir
China -- Description and travel
The officer appointed to attend us wore a light blue button in his cap,
denoting the 4th degree of rank. When he shewed the apartments that were
designed for us, I could not forbear observing to him, that they seemed
fitter for hogs than for human creatures, and that rather than be
obliged to occupy those, or any other like them, I should for my own
part prefer coming down from the capital every morning, and return in
the evening. They consisted of three or four hovels in a small court,
surrounded with a wall as high as their roofs. Each room was about
twelve feet square, the walls completely naked, the ceiling broken in,
the rushes or stems of _boleus_, that held the plaister, hanging down
and strewed on the floor; the lattice work of the windows partially
covered with broken paper; the doors consisting of old bamboo skreens;
the floor covered with dust, and there was not the least furniture in
any of them, except an old table and two or three chairs in the one
which was intended, I suppose, for the dining-room. The rest had nothing
in them whatsoever but a little raised platform of brick-work, which
they told us was to sleep on, and that they should cover it with mats,
and order proper bedding to be brought upon it. Yet these miserable
hovels were not only within the palace wall, but scarcely two hundred
yards from the great hall of audience. The officer assured us that they
were the apartments of one of their _Ta-gin_ (great men) but that, as I
did not seem to like them, we should be accommodated with others. We
were then carried a little farther, where there was a number of
buildings upon a more extensive scale enclosed also by high walls. The
apartments were somewhat larger, but miserably dirty both within and
without, and wholly unfurnished; but as our attendant took care to tell
us they belonged to one of the _ministers of state_, and that he lodged
in them when the Emperor was at Yuen-min-yuen, we were precluded from
further complaint. Had we refused those that were considered sufficient
for a minister of state, the man might have thought that nothing less
than the Emperor's own would have satisfied us. If the menial servants
of his Britannic Majesty's Ministers were no better lodged than the
ministers themselves of his Chinese Majesty, they would be apt to think
themselves very ill used. We accepted them, however, such as they were,
and caused them to be swept out, an operation which had not been
performed for many months before; a table and chairs were brought in,
with mats, pillows, and silken mattresses; but for these we had no
occasion, having fortunately brought with us from the ships our own
cots.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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