Travels in Kamtschatka, During the Years 1787 and 1788, Volume 1Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
History
Travels in Kamtschatka, During the Years 1787 and 1788, Volume 1
Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
Kamchatka Peninsula (Russia) -- Description and travel
sufficient reason to fear us.
M. Schmaleff quitted us at break of day, and set off for Tiguil, on
the western coast, to complete the visit of his government[66].
We left Apatchin almost at the same time. Our retinue being less
numerous we made more expedition. Having passed the plain in which this
ostrog is situated, we met the Bolchaïa-reka, upon which we journeyed
for several hours. We followed it through all its windings, sometimes
in the middle of a forest, and sometimes at the foot of steep and
dreary mountains, which arise at intervals on its banks. Fifteen wersts
from Malkin we left this river, because the current began to put in
motion the ice which was broken in different places; and before we
reached this ostrog, we crossed the Bristraïa. We arrived about two
o'clock. The distance from Apatchin is sixty-four wersts, and having no
change of dogs, we were obliged to stop, to give them time to rest.
The toyon of Malkin came to meet M. Kasloff, and offered him his isba.
Considerable preparations had been made for our reception, which
induced us to pass the night there. He treated us with the utmost
respect, and entertained us in the best manner he could. I regretted
that his cares had not extended to the article of our repose. Mine
was terribly interrupted by the noise of our steeds, to which I was
not yet accustomed. The shrill and incessant howlings of these cursed
animals, seemed close at my ears, and prevented me from sleeping during
the whole night. It is necessary to have heard this nocturnal music,
the most disagreeable I ever experienced, to judge of what I suffered
in habituating myself to it; for in the course of my journey I was
obliged to learn to rest in defiance of it. After a few bad nights,
sleep at last overpowered me, and I was insensible to all noise. By
degrees I became so inured to the cries of these animals, that I could
repose in the midst of them in perfect tranquillity. I shall mention in
this place, that the dogs are only fed once a day, at the end of their
journey; their repast consists commonly of a dried salmon distributed
to each of them.
The ostrog of Malkin is similar to those which I have already
described. It contains five or six isbas and a dozen balagans, is
situated upon the border of the Bistraïa, and surrounded with high
mountains. I had no time to visit the hot springs that are said to be
in this neighbourhood, the waters of which are strongly impregnated
with sulphur; and one in particular, issuing from the declivity of a
hill, forms at the bottom a bason of tolerably clear water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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