Travels in Kamtschatka, During the Years 1787 and 1788, Volume 1Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
History
Travels in Kamtschatka, During the Years 1787 and 1788, Volume 1
Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
Kamchatka Peninsula (Russia) -- Description and travel
From Malkin we went to Ganal, which is forty-five wersts, but we were
unable to travel with the speed we had expected. The Bistraïa was not
completely frozen, and we were obliged to wind about and to cross
woods, where the snow, though deep, was so far from firm, that our dogs
sunk to their bellies, and were extremely fatigued. This induced us to
abandon this road, and make again for the Bistraïa. We came up to it
at ten wersts from Ganal, and found it in the state we had wished. The
solidity of the ice promised us expeditious travelling, and we readily
embraced the advantage. We followed this river till we came to the
ostrog which is upon its bank, and consists of four isbas and twelve
balagans. It offered nothing remarkable.
We only learned that there had been some very terrible hurricanes, and
that they had not yet subsided, though their force was considerably
diminished. There is no difficulty in accounting for the violence of
these tempests. The surrounding high mountains form so many recesses in
which the wind is embayed. The fewer avenues it has to escape at, the
more impetuous it becomes: it seeks out a passage, rushes through the
first that offers, breaks out in whirlwinds, scatters the snow over the
roads, and generally renders them impassable.
Having spent a very indifferent night in the house of the toyon of
Ganal, we set off the next day for Pouschiné. The distance is ninety
wersts, which however we performed in fourteen hours; but the last half
of the journey was very painful. No road being opened, our sledges sunk
three or four feet in the snow, and the jolts were so frequent, that I
was happy to escape with being only once overturned. We judged from the
snow upon the trees, that it must have proceeded from the north, and
been very heavy, which was confirmed by the inhabitants. Our road lay
invariably through a forest of birch trees, and for some time we lost
sight of the mountains, by which we had passed the preceding evening;
but as we drew nearer to Pouschiné they became visible again.
The Kamtschatka runs by the lower end of this ostrog, which is larger
than that of Ganal. The only thing I remarked in this place was, that
the isbas had no chimneys; they have only, like the balagans, a narrow
opening in the roof to let out the smoak, which is frequently closed up
by a trap door to confine the heat. It is not possible to continue in
apartments warmed in this manner; we must either come out, or prostrate
ourselves on the floor, if we would escape being stifled, or at least
blinded, by the smoke: it does not ascend directly towards the roof,
but spreads a thick black cloud over the chamber; and as it seldom has
time wholly to evaporate, the interior part of these isbas is lined
with soot, which gives them a disgusting aspect and a most offensive
smell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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