Travels in Kamtschatka, During the Years 1787 and 1788, Volume 1Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
History
Travels in Kamtschatka, During the Years 1787 and 1788, Volume 1
Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
Kamchatka Peninsula (Russia) -- Description and travel
In the mean time what struck me most was the strictness of the
ceremonial. The distinction of rank seemed to be observed with the most
scrupulous delicacy. The formality, compliments, and cold civilities,
which opened the entertainment, gave it a starched air, that promised
more dulness than gaiety. The repast was the most sumptuous the country
could furnish. Among other dishes there was a variety of soups,
accompanied with cold meats, upon which we fed heartily. The second
service consisted of roasted dishes and pastry. The dinner had less
the appearance of sensuality than profusion. The liquors were the
produce of the different fruits of the country, boiled up and mixed
with French brandy. But a profusion of the brandy of the country,
made from the _slatkaïa-trava_, or sweet herb, which I have already
noticed, was almost continually served round in preference. This
liquor has no disagreeable taste, and is even aromatic; they use it
the more readily, as it is less unwholesome than the brandy distilled
from corn. The guests by degrees assumed an air of good humour. Their
heads were not proof against the fumes of so strong a beverage, and
soon the grossest mirth circulated round the table. To this noisy and
sumptuous feast a ball succeeded, that was conducted with tolerable
regularity. The company were gay, and amused themselves till the
evening with Polish and Russian country dances. The festival ended with
a splendid fire-work, that had been prepared by M. Orleankoff, and
which he himself let off. It was only a trifling one, but it had a good
effect, and left nothing to be desired. I enjoyed the astonishment and
extasy of the spectators, who were little accustomed to exhibitions of
this nature: it was a subject for a painter. Rapt in admiration, they
exclaimed in full chorus at every squib. The regret they expressed at
its short duration afforded me equal amusement. It was necessary to
attend to the extravagant encomiums that were unanimously bestowed upon
them; and on departing, every individual sighed over the remembrance
of all the pleasures of the day.
The next day I was invited to the house of the protapope, uncle to the
bride, where the entertainment was similar to that of the preceding
one, except the fire-work. I have already observed, that the protapope
is chief of all the churches in Kamtschatka. The clergy throughout
the peninsula are subordinate to him, and he has the decision of all
ecclesiastical affairs. His residence is at Nijenei. He is an old man,
not entirely deprived of his vigour, with a long white beard which
flows down upon his breast and gives him a truly venerable appearance.
His conversation is sensible, sprightly, and calculated to gain him the
respect and affection of the people.
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