Travels in Kamtschatka, during the years 1787 and 1788, Volume 2Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
History
Travels in Kamtschatka, during the years 1787 and 1788, Volume 2
Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
Kamchatka Peninsula (Russia) -- Description and travel
A few paces from the preceding habitation, which is called
_Amguinskoi-stanovie_, or Amgui halt, I saw in the road wooden
images of a bird about the size of a duck, or a cormorant; they are
emblematical representations of a malicious divinity, the terror of the
whole canton. The most absurd stories are told upon this subject; it
is said, for example, that this diabolical spirit has frequently led
travellers out of their road, and devoured their horses.
I alighted in the evening at the house of another Yakout prince[85],
who had just settled himself in his summer habitation, which seemed
to be equally neat and pleasant. I shall here insert a description
of their _ourassis_, for such is the name by which these picturesque
dwellings are called.
Like the yourts of the wandering Koriacs, they are circular, spacious,
and constructed with poles, fewer in number, but ranged in the same
manner, and kept asunder by a sort of hoops at the top; the whole
covered in with the bark of the birch tree[86], formed into pieces
eighteen inches wide, placed in a downward direction. These pieces are
edged with a kind of ribband equally made of this bark, and shaped
into festoons, and the inside of the yourt is ornamented in the same
manner. The taste of these ornaments is governed by the caprice of
the proprietor, and there is in them a sort of wildness that is
sufficiently amusing. The same decoration is annexed to the chairs and
beds of the heads of families. The domestics lie upon the ground on
mats or skins, and the fire is lighted in the middle of the house.
The 28, I came to the river Sola, and rode for a considerable time
along its banks. The heat incommoded me as much as the flies, and I was
so thirsty that I stopped at every yourt to drink koumouiss.
The next morning I reached a place called _Yarmangui_, which is
two hundred wersts from Amgui, and on the border of the Lena. By
crossing this river I should be at Yakoutsk; but by a regulation
of the governor, every traveller was obliged to wait here till he
had permission to enter the town. Disagreeable as was this kind of
quarantine, I had reconciled myself to it, when a subaltern officer
requested me to go two hundred yards farther, where I should find the
inspector general, and a lieutenant belonging to Mr. Billings. They
were informed of my arrival, and received me with the most flattering
demonstrations of esteem and joy. I had no sooner explained to them how
much the delay with which I was threatened would counteract my views,
than they gave instant orders for my being conducted to the other side
of the river, adding, that they were sure of the approbation of the
governor, to whom I had long since been announced and recommended.
At noon I entered the boat provided for me, and was four hours in
crossing the Lena in a diagonal direction. As far as I could judge by
my eye, this river cannot be less than two leagues wide.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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