Travels in Kamtschatka, during the years 1787 and 1788, Volume 2Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
History
Travels in Kamtschatka, during the years 1787 and 1788, Volume 2
Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
Kamchatka Peninsula (Russia) -- Description and travel
We soon came to the sea, upon which we travelled in order to avoid
seven mountains, which rendered the common route extremely difficult.
We had scarcely advanced fifteen wersts, partly upon the ice, and
partly upon the coast, when fortunately for us, we were obliged to
return, as the snow began to fall, and the wind to blow with an
impetuosity that drove our dogs back, and made our sledges totter. My
guides delayed not to inform me of the danger; and from the fear of
misleading us, they proposed that we should take shelter in a deserted
yourt that was at no great distance, and the situation of which they
were perfectly acquainted with.
It is upon a small river called _Yovanna_, twenty wersts from Toumané.
When we came up to it we were covered with snow, and almost frozen. We
were all eager to descend that we might be screened from the tempest,
but we found its entrance stopped up with snow four feet deep. Having
hastily arranged our sledges, we took our rackets, for want of shovels,
and began to open a passage. This work occupied us an hour. We were
still in want of a ladder; the most hardy ventured to leap down, and
the rest followed them. We fell upon the carcasses of sea wolves
entirely frozen, and some of them half devoured, doubtless by ravenous
beasts, who, in the depth of winter, had made this subterraneous
habitation their den. A leathern seine in one corner of the yourt, was
the only indication that it had been visited by human beings. It is
to be presumed that the neighbouring Koriacs had made use of it as a
reservoir. The walls were surrounded with icicles, which fell down in
chrystallizations; and in truth, I can only compare this dwelling to
a large ice house. Its form was square, and its dimensions about five
feet deep by ten large.
While we were employed in placing the sea wolves out of the way,
that we might have more room to lie down, my conductors fastened our
dogs[42], and gave them their allowance of food; at the same time a
fire was kindled, and having warmed ourselves and eaten our supper,
I extended myself upon the leathern net we had found in the yourt. A
sea wolf under my head served me as a pillow. My companions imitated
my example; and, excepting the disadvantage of having too confined a
space, we passed a very good night. We ceded an entire corner to the
Koriacs of my suite, who huddled together, and were unable to stretch
themselves at their length; but they made no complaint, and appeared
not to be conscious of any inconvenience. I saw them squat down, like
apes, their head muffled up in their parque, and their elbows resting
upon their knees; and in this posture they slept as soundly as if
wholly at their ease.
The next day the wind changed, but its violence did not abate, and it
was the more troublesome to us, as it drove the smoke into the yourt to
such a degree that we were suffocated and blinded, and were obliged not
to light our fire except at our meals.
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